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prstlk's avatar
prstlk
Explorer
Jan 14, 2015

Refer problems, No I mean ice maker problems

2007 HR Ambassador Norcold 1200 fridge.

Noticed small amount of water dripping from the LPG tank door bay. (Almost 1/3 back from the from the front of the coach on this model). Tracked it to the fridge compartment, only one outside access door on this model mounted low. There was water dripping slightly from out of reach and out of vision toward the the back/top of the unit.

Shut off the water to the icemaker, leak stopped. Looked gawked shown lights etc and found no access to the line.

Called a mobile tech we have used and trusted to take a look.

His dio was line failure at the top of the fridge were the line enters the freezer.

Repair means removing the fridge to replace the line. $300/$400.+ Parts

Service contract is no help. (Sorry parts made of plastic rubber or vinyl are not covered)

I can by lots of bags of ice or use trays....but things that don't work #iss me off.

Questions.. What if...
Does the sollaniod on the back of the fridge that I can see determine the how much water goes into the tray in the ice maker.
If so what is wrong with drilling a small hole in the back of the frezzer above the exsisting line and running a copper line down to the valve/solinoid.

Thanks to all in advance.

You have saved me a pile over the years!
jw

14 Replies

  • We have the exact same problem on our Dometic. Ours was caused by a short in the heat 'tape' which melted the plastic line. Because ours is still under warranty, they refuse to replace the part with anything except the OEM part. It is on order and expected to take 6 weeks to arrive.

    However, in talking to the guy, it seems any plastic line the same size will work, as long as you do not use the fridge below freezing without first draining the icemaker and shutting water off to the line.

    The most difficult part of replacing this line is pulling out the fridge. If you have someone big and muscular, it only needs to come about halfway out to access the line. Then it is a simple replacement, according to the mechanic.
  • If you can see the line at the top of system from your door then push a new line from the inside freezer to the outside. Then pull new line down to control valve.
  • Never worked on an rv ice maker but have on residential. The timer sends a signal to element tray, heats the tray slightly, the arms scoop the ice out, the timer powers the solenoid to send water to the tray.
    The solenoids may have push lock fittings for the plastic lines. You really wont know what is leaking until you actually see it. It may necessitate having the frig backside in view to see what is leaking. It could be the solenoid or a push lock connector etc. I agree on having stuff that dont work. Especially when it's now taking up room and not working. As he said above be sure the tray drain is open also.

    Page 57 shows the valve. Only other idea I have is could it have a spec of crud stuck in the solenoid valve seat? It would seem that the tray would over fill. But then you said the water was in back? So again need to see the valve area while under pressure or during the fill cycle.

    Manual
  • Are you sure the freezer isn't in need of a good defrosting? The entry hole holds the hose lightly and cannot hold the pressure of a frozen ice dam.

    My ice maker has been a real pain but my wife won't let me toss it out. I even bought a new one but it too is a pain.