What's the easiest way to remove a Atwood water heater plug? I can barely fit my adjustable wrench onto the plug and can only turn it less than 1/8 of a turn at a time due to tight access. Curious as to what the black wire is that's connected to the clamp. The long bolts limit access to the drain plugThanks!

I have the same experience as you, I have used a box end wrench, forget the size but still only 1/8 of a turn. I plan to get a set of ratchet wrenches, maybe then I can do it easier.I did replace the plastic plug with a brass one from camping world that has a drain cock similar to a car radiator drain, at least now I do not need a wrench to drain.

15/16 socket and extensionDo not use anything other then the nylon hollowed out plug from Atwood.

I use our 4 way tire iron. One of the sockets fits perfect no muss no fuss.

Older model Atwood drain plugs needed a 7/8" socket/wrenchThen in 2004? the drain plug size changed to 15/16"6 point socket works best

Removing Atwood water heater plug photo added | Good Sam Community

JR45
Explorer
Apr 09, 2015
To remove the plug, I use a Crowfoot Wrench
http://www.sears.com/craftsman-10-pc-standard-crowfoot-wrench-set/p-00904362000P
JR
PaulJ2
Explorer
Apr 09, 2015
Ranger Smith wrote:
I use our 4 way tire iron. One of the sockets fits perfect no muss no fuss.

X2 4 way lug wrench works fine for me too.
ezgoin
Explorer
Apr 09, 2015
ezgoin wrote:
DUH!!!! I didn't have to replace any bolts. I loosened both bolts slightly and rotated the clamp slightly to the left which raised the bolt closest to the drain plug enough that I can get a socket extension through. Sometimes the simplest option is the least obvious. Go figure!

That's exactly what I did. Thanks.
oldkeywest91
Explorer
Apr 08, 2015
the black wire is a ground wire to the copper tubing.if it helps you can just loosen the screws and turn the clap out of your way.
wolfe10
Explorer
Apr 08, 2015
Totally agree. OK (actually GOOD) to ground the propane line, but it should be done and is generally done on the metal line close to the tank. Since (and here I am ASSUMING) your propane lines are either iron or copper, no need to a second ground connection as they are all electrically connected.

Just throw that one away if the line is grounded elsewhere/ground it elsewhere and THEN throw it away.
jwmII
Explorer
Apr 08, 2015
ezgoin wrote:
Here's my issue. Bolts on clamp are too long. What is this wire that's clamped on here?

That clamp is an electrical ground wire clamp. If it is on the gas line ,Remove it and seek another area(like on the frame) to ground the wire. That will allow you access to the drain plug when you remove the clamp from that gas line. Using a dissimilar metal plug from what the heater tank is made of will setup electrolysis and erode the aluminum heater tank and could even******up the plug and threads so bad that you cannot remove it.
enblethen
Nomad
Apr 08, 2015
White wire is electrical is only used as neutral and in special cases can be used for power but must be marked. Bonding is done only with green or bare.
10forty2
Explorer
Apr 08, 2015
enblethen wrote:
ckwjl, I would install a plastic fitting in the tank and then use the brass check valve.
10forty2, that is unnecessary as the iron gas line is grounded to the chassis through the mounting brackets.

Could be unnecessary as you say, but that's how mine is done also...except they used a white bonding wire instead of a black wire on my coach. White is the standard color for bonding wire in residential wiring. When I questioned the same thing in my mind as the pipe already being grounded, I decided to trace the white wire and sure enough it was bonding the section of pipe inside the water heater compartment to itself on the section of pipe under the coach and then to the chassis through the pipe mounts. It's actually a fairly common practice since the flow of LP through the pipe can cause static buildup just like the flow of gasoline through a fill nozzle can cause static buildup. It just ensures a solid bond to eliminate static. That's why they always recommend that you don't take your hand off the fuel filler nozzle while fueling...so you don't cause the static to discharge. In keeping in contact with the nozzle, you are bonded to the nozzle and can't cause a potential difference for an electrical charge and hence an avenue for a spark to jump across. :-)
mccsix
Explorer
Apr 08, 2015
Ck the wire for continuity to ground or voltage, then remove the clamp do your plug thing and re-install the clamp with shorter bolts.
ezgoin
Explorer
Apr 08, 2015
DUH!!!! I didn't have to replace any bolts. I loosened both bolts slightly and rotated the clamp slightly to the left which raised the bolt closest to the drain plug enough that I can get a socket extension through. Sometimes the simplest option is the least obvious. Go figure!