Forum Discussion

shewearsboots's avatar
May 20, 2013

Repair help on leak in '93 Tioga while full-timing

Hey folks, so we're new to RVing, and in fact, jumped in headfirst as full-timers. Husband is in school, so it's the 2 of us and our 6 month-old in a '93 Fleetwood Tioga Montara class C. Unit was well-maintained by previous folks and has for the most part been well cared-for.

Well, we tried to replace silicon seal on exterior of cabover window before we set off for full-time and evidently DH didn't do a good job. Got a leak. So, now we're living full-time in the thing, and we're triaging the leak. Resealed exterior of window frame with Pro-Flex with the help of a long-time RVer and handyman. Leak is better, but not totally fixed. We're trying to reseal the roof with additional Dicor, but since it's been raining for the last 3 days and forecast isn't better, we're having a hard time finishing that. DH did some sealing yesterday up on the roof, had tons of rain this morning and leak is quite a bit better. I think we've almost figured out how to stop the water coming in. We're down to a few milliliters of water for 2 hours of hard rain. So that's good.

My question now is: how to repair the damage? If at all? We're not using the cabover bunk for sleeping, but as an "attic" for storage. Mattress didn't even come with us. So, not a problem to get all our stuff out of there. I'll post pics of the damage, but it looks like interior laminate has come apart, a little bit of wood rot, but when I pull back the laminate from the front exterior wall, I can see the insulation has a black coating of mold on it!

So, I'm not sure how far to dig into this repair. We only move the RV every few weeks, so we don't have to pick up and drive it every day. With a time constraint of 2 weeks before driving, and the fact that we're living it, how much should we try to do? Just dry it out? The repair doesn't need to be pretty. It just needs to stop further damage and be functional for the next 6 months. My thought was to take up the interior finishing (plastic laminate) and pull out the soaked fiberglass insulation, run fans on it and get it dried before it rots any more, then replace interior finishings, perhaps with new fiberglass? Or not? Should we just leave it out? Does the insulation/interior finishing serve any function in terms of keeping the unit watertight? Help! We're so new to this, so we want to triage the problem now, but we're on the road, making repairs onsite. Suggestions? Ideas?

10 Replies

  • Okay, here is my best shot a few pictures:

    Folder: RV Damage

    One photo shows the lower left (driver's side) corner of the cabover. The water was coming in at the lower left corner of the window (though the actual leak seems to have been coming from somewhere near the roofline, as I finally finished fixing the dicor on the roof/running lights, and we've had 2 rainstorms without leaking).

    One photo is of the seam at the top of the curve of the cabover in the upper left (driver's side). The tape appears to be cracking and peeling. Wondering if the water could have also traveled along that wire?

    The other two photos are of what lies beneath the front panel connecting the lower seam of the cabover to the forward facing wall, with the window in it. Clearly, there's quite a bit of rot in there, though it doesn't seem wet. Looks to me like it was a previous leak that was fixed, but the damage never was repaired. So, worth opening up and dryign it out? We're not about to attempt to re-frame that area while living in it, and no one sleeps up there. Should I even bother opening it up if it seems dry? I don't want to stir up a bunch of old mold spores, esp. with the baby sleeping nearby.

    I think the repair we're capable of right now is drying, cleaning with bleach, etc, and potentially replacing some of the tape along the seams. But my guess is that we'd rather know if it started leaking again, rather than shuttling that water into the interior framing of the RV, where it would do more structural damage. Let me know what y'all think. And thanks again for all the help!
  • Sliding side windows in the overhead can be another source of leakage. There are You Tube videos about cleaning out the channels and weep holes so that water does not fill channels and leak inside. Same applies to other sliding side windows. Good luck, sounds like you are gaining on it.
  • I've read as such about silicone, thanks for confirming our suspicions. Unfortunately, POs used silicone everywhere! So, we're reduced to patching things up as we go. I think we may use some eternabond if the need arrives. We did use ProFlex on the front window, and that seems to be a better product for RVs. But around the running lights, I just went for it and used dicor. Will dicor stick to silicon?

    Had a huge rainstorm last night after I redid some Dicor work on the roof earlier in the day, and as of this morning, I see no sign of new water. So that's good. I hope to be able to get some pictures of the damage a little later today and post. Trouble is: baby sleeps just below where I need to take pictures, and when she's sleeping is the only time I can get up there.
  • First tip is to ditch the silicone. Silicone does not work on RVs. The constant flexing on an RV will cause the silicone to open up very small spots for water to get through. Nothing else will ever stick to silicone once it is on your RV. Scrape all of the silicone off and use Dicor and Eternabond tape for a lasting seal. Eternabond tape was originally made to seal underwater lines while they were still underwater. It is rather expensive but works.
  • shewearsboots wrote:
    Thanks for the fix KSG5000. Sorry about my ineptitude with posting. Also: great tip parking the rig nose up. I'll take pics this afternoon after the baby is done napping. We're working on figuring out exactly where that leak is coming from. Does an RV shop do pressure testing?


    The CW near me does pressure testing for $99 I think - suspect many RV outfits do this type of testing and a few calls should help identify who and how much.

    Posting picture on this forum requires you to put them an outside host - think there is an FAQ on the subject. My rigs a Jamboree which is made by Fleetwood and probably close enough to yr/make that I might be able to help with how to disassemble and repair.
  • Looks like my mold fears were wrong; the black I saw was just the paper lining the fiberglass insulation. There is some rot on the frame at the lower front part of the cabover, but that rot is old, totally dry, not load bearing, and clearly nothing that we can do anything about while living in it. Running fans now to dry out as much of the area as possible, and once we fix the leak, I may open up the finishing just to see how bad the inside is, and get it as dry as possible. I'm thinking a lot won't need to be replaced. Pics later. Thanks for ya'lls feedback. Its a relief to get some opinions from people who know a HECK of a lot more than we do. That said, we're learning FAST. :)
  • Fix it. It it isn't rotten, to the best of your analysis, or moldy, live on. :)
  • Thanks for the fix KSG5000. Sorry about my ineptitude with posting. Also: great tip parking the rig nose up. I'll take pics this afternoon after the baby is done napping. We're working on figuring out exactly where that leak is coming from. Does an RV shop do pressure testing?
  • Pictures worth a thousands words - fix depends on extent of damage.

    Your first goal is to stop the leak - fixing doesn't make sense until that's done. Are you absolutely sure where the leak is coming from - cab over leaks can come from places other than the front windows - running lights, side seems etc. If you have any doubt where the leaks is coming from consider having the rig pressure tested - cost about $100 and worth every penny.

    My cabover leak damage was modest - damage was mostly cosmetic (wallpaper, veneer etc). I scrubbed everything with bleach etc then used heat and fans to dry everything. Painted all the wood with a water proof paint. Purchased thin luan (stuff they skin doors with) as replacement for the veneer, replaced wet insulation etc. I took my time and it wasn't very hard.

    In the interim - park the rig so that the nose is slightly elevated and put a tarp over the cab over area.