Replacing microwave/convection oven
The over the counter microwave in our 1999 DSDP is kaput. At 15 years old, I guess it's due. Can anyone give me an idea how to remove it while minimizing the damage to the cabinetry? Thanks! Bob
Forum Discussion
I received the new microwave and have it installed now.
As I had previously mentioned, Newmar had, in addition to the long bolts that come up from the bottom of the unit at an angle to the backplate, and the other two bolts that come down from the shelf above the unit into the top of the oven, drove four long sheet metal screws through the wood framing of the top shelf down into the top of the microwave.
The only reason I could see for having done that was that they apparently had some difficulty locating the proper position for the holes in the top shelf to align with the threaded bosses In the top of the microwave. So, they made the holes larger and larger until they could finally get a straight shot down.
As a result, the top bolts, which have about 1" diameter "fender washers" under them, were only hanging on the edge of the holes in the shelf, and a trip down a rough road could easily have caused the fender washer to be tilted enough to pull through the hole in the shelf, allowing the unit to be suspended only by the bottom angle bolts, which may not have been sufficient for the 71 pound load.
So, when I put the unit back in, I cut 2.5" squares of 1/8", 5 ply aircraft plywood to cover the large holes in the shelf, and drilled bolt-sized holes in the squares for the fender washers to bear against.
What I'd like to know is, do I also need to drive more sheet metal screws through the shelf trim into the top of the microwave, or have I adequately secured the unit as described above?
Bob
As I had previously mentioned, Newmar had, in addition to the long bolts that come up from the bottom of the unit at an angle to the backplate, and the other two bolts that come down from the shelf above the unit into the top of the oven, drove four long sheet metal screws through the wood framing of the top shelf down into the top of the microwave.
The only reason I could see for having done that was that they apparently had some difficulty locating the proper position for the holes in the top shelf to align with the threaded bosses In the top of the microwave. So, they made the holes larger and larger until they could finally get a straight shot down.
As a result, the top bolts, which have about 1" diameter "fender washers" under them, were only hanging on the edge of the holes in the shelf, and a trip down a rough road could easily have caused the fender washer to be tilted enough to pull through the hole in the shelf, allowing the unit to be suspended only by the bottom angle bolts, which may not have been sufficient for the 71 pound load.
So, when I put the unit back in, I cut 2.5" squares of 1/8", 5 ply aircraft plywood to cover the large holes in the shelf, and drilled bolt-sized holes in the squares for the fender washers to bear against.
What I'd like to know is, do I also need to drive more sheet metal screws through the shelf trim into the top of the microwave, or have I adequately secured the unit as described above?
Bob
