RESOLVED: Any plumbing help on here

OK, I found it and it now works like new. It was the cold water inlet at the 3 way winterizing valves. These are brass valves and the washer came loose on that one valve. I had several replacement washers laying around so I replaced them on all three valves. I HAVE WATER PRESSURE AGAIN!!!

Thanks to all who had input.

As others have ask have you checked to see if water is flowing into the water heater? Remove water pressure, Open faucet to let pressure bleed off, Open TPR valve (pop off valve on outside) manually, you may want to extend it (1/2 inch IPT thread most likely) a bit then remove drain and extend that opening with a pipe nipple to get it past the side of the MH.

Let it drain, While this is happening close both inlet and outlet valves (leave bypass closed) and restore water pressure.

Tank should drain.

Now, once tank has drained open inlet valve

You should get good flow.

IF SO: your problem is with the outlet.

MANY water heaters have a check valve on the outlet. This is NOT NEEDED with the 3-valve system, but it has a habbit of gunking up and not opening,, The solution, Gut the thing using a pair of needle nose pliars and be done with it.

Tinstar wrote:

Old-Biscuit wrote:
Why do you think inlet valve is bad?
Have you popped open the Pressure Relief Valve on water heater (outside compartment) to check that water heater tank is full.
If inlet valve is bad.....no water should come out of PRV.
With water supply ON......water should BLOW out of PRV----steady stream/flow

I have good flow everywhere in the RV except out of the water heater. All faucets have good cold water flow but only a trickle on hot. Water barely flows from the water heater drain plug (with the PRV open) and the pump turned on. There is just about 1/4 of the water coming out the PRV with the water turned on (no blowing water from there either). I'm thinking it has to be either the inlet to the water heater or the back flow preventer at the water heater. I can't think of any other place where the restriction might be, but I'm open to suggestions.

3 valve system on water heater (inlet/outlet/bypass valves) would be very unusual to have any check valves on water heater.
Check valves are used in place on shut-off valves.

So it does sound like cold inlet valve is NOT opening.....stem is probably separated from valve disc/ball. Replace valve.

smkettner wrote:
Dremel? Just use a razor knife and cut out the whole business and get new stuff.

I thought that grey pex was the old stuff and should be replaced anyway.

Me too on NEW why reuse old....

Depending on how old the rig is that tubing may be polybutylene and not pex. If that is the case then your troubles may have just begun.

If you do a PEX fitting you will need a tool, you can rent them for a minimal price like at ACE hardware

Old-Biscuit wrote:
Why do you think inlet valve is bad?
Have you popped open the Pressure Relief Valve on water heater (outside compartment) to check that water heater tank is full.
If inlet valve is bad.....no water should come out of PRV.
With water supply ON......water should BLOW out of PRV----steady stream/flow

I have good flow everywhere in the RV except out of the water heater. All faucets have good cold water flow but only a trickle on hot. Water barely flows from the water heater drain plug (with the PRV open) and the pump turned on. There is just about 1/4 of the water coming out the PRV with the water turned on (no blowing water from there either). I'm thinking it has to be either the inlet to the water heater or the back flow preventer at the water heater. I can't think of any other place where the restriction might be, but I'm open to suggestions.

Dremel? Just use a razor knife and cut out the whole business and get new stuff.

I thought that grey pex was the old stuff and should be replaced anyway.

Use a Dremel tool with cut off wheel to cut the crimp bands off.. carefully cut diagonally across band just enough to weaken band then remove with a pair of pliers. (Don't want to cut into side of PEX tubing)

Replace valve with Flair-It Brand valve (Most hardware stores) or Sharkbite (Home Depot) or Gatorbite (Lowes). 1/2" PEX

Most of the OEM valves used are throw aways.


Why do you think inlet valve is bad?
Have you popped open the Pressure Relief Valve on water heater (outside compartment) to check that water heater tank is full.
If inlet valve is bad.....no water should come out of PRV.
With water supply ON......water should BLOW out of PRV----steady stream/flow

X2 on the Sharkbite or similar brand fittings. Very easy to install in PEX and just as crimp rings in my opinion.