I have a question for RoadTrek CS owner, the new refrigerator (7CF) is listed as 12v and 110V. The CS model has propane but it looks like the Ref is power from the batteries and invertor when driving down the road.I am a full-timer (2007) in a Class C 29FT and want to go to a smaller unit, but my wife has MS and needs a Refrigerator for Meds. I check with some of the dealer on the Etrek (too small for fulltime) and my understanding is add the engine generator is just a extra alternator to charge the batteries. The A/C is also power by the 5K invertor.Thanks for any repleys Please no experts on why not to buy a Roadtrek Bobby Johnson K5YPP Firefighter EMT

The fridge is a compressor based fridge, a Norcold DE-0061 model. It doesn't use propane, but it will make inroads on your battery's charge.On the CS, you have three options:Buy the "engine generator" option. Caveat with this is that you run into troubles if idling a Sprinter engine for long periods, maybe running the risk of plugging the DPF, which can cost $3000+ to replace.Get a propane generator option. This will charge the batteries, but propane generators tend to not have a long run time on the 10 gallon tank. From what I know, you will be able to run the generator 20 hours, tops.Getting an external gasoline powered generator. A small, 1000 watt inverter generator can run 8-12 hours in less than a gallon of gasoline, good enough to top off the batteries. However, you will need to find space for that somewhere.

Not to be rude but my question was to someone who owns a RoadTrek CS with the Norcold Unit. As a full-time I know how to connect a Propane Generator.As a Firefighter I have run Tanker and Engine for over 10 Hours on idle, on all fire scene all equipment is always running with or without load no problem !On my Class C with a generator the fridge is on Propane or 110v and it must have 12 volt to control the CPU.My Question is without starting the propane generator and going down the road is the fridge on the invertor if it is the standard CS only has a 750W unit and will not support the fridge. The RV batteries are isolated from the engine unless you option for the 3500engine/2500 invertor I think?

this is posted to RV's who have Class B units not Trailer experts

We don't have a CS, but we do have a Roadtrek 190 with compressor frig, and have looked at the CS systems.The compressor frig in the CS will be running on 12 volts going down the road. The 12 volts is probably the actual compressor design voltage anyway, as it will almost certainly have a Danfus compressor in it. On shore power it will be running on 110volts. It shouldn't need 12 volts when on AC. The frig will use, probably, about 50-80AH per day.The specs on the CS have jumped around a little with the propane generator. If I understand them right, if you get the E-trek style 8 battery setup, you can't get the the generator. With the generator you are limited to 4 batteries. Even with 8 batteries, any reasonable amount of air conditioning use is pretty near folly, regardless of what Roadtrek says, and they have backed way, way off their original claims of run time.The new Sprinters are not the same as an old big truck diesel. They have EGR and DPF systems that will plug from extended idling, per Mercedes Benz, which could severely limit the usefulness of the add on engine generator.If the e-trek is too small for you, all you gain with the CS is cabinet space, as they are built on the same van.

I don't have a CS but I have a 190 with an all electric fridge. We run the fridge the entire time that we are traveling. It goes on when we leave the house and it does not go off until we return home. I need that fridge for my meds and had it installed before I took delivery of the Roadtrek. It runs fine on our two coach batteries and when we hook up at a campground the 110 v takes over - and recharges our batteries at the same time. We have the Onan generator and it also will power the fridge and charge the batteries. You are correct about the engine generator. It is actually an large alternator that will recharge the batteries to full in two hours. There are now also solar options for all Roadtreks that will keep your batteries charged during the day. The A/C will only run off the grid with the ETrek's solar and power capacity (8 batteries) and it will do so for an estimated 9 hours - with no other drain on the batteries. (And that number may not be accurate.) Then the engine generator needs to be run to bring the batteries back up. The ETrek can be fitted with multiple power sources.If you plan to boondock for more than a day then you are going to need to recharge your batteries at some point. If you plan to go in and out of campgrounds, the compressor all electric fridge will be fine with two batteries and regular recharges. The Roadtrek batteries charge while you drive on all models. If you want more space inside, get a 210, have a compressor fridge installed (I suggest NovaKool as it fits the space with over 4 cuft inside), and have it optioned with solar panels and 4 AGM batteries, the Onan 2800 and the larger inverter. Anyway, I had to have the all electric fridge for my meds and I do not need to be level to run it.

Roadtrek CS owner | Good Sam Community

ABBACUS
Explorer
Jun 25, 2014
Davedd gives some good advise I started the about the Roadtrek Refrigerator it is 110v or 12v. It will run totally on 12V's. The Roadtrek is not you normal RV that Cost 350K Class A. I would not have the batteries installed under the Bed Very bad ideal. As a Firefighter most fires in RV Come from the Hot Water Heater (GAS) or Refrigerator (GAS) when people don't check or do maintains on get GAS chamber clean out. The Roadtrek Don't use this type of system.
Remember the Roadtrek is a Truck the M/B warranty is excellent with lots of history and road miles problem free. Normal wear and tear is not cover on any extended warranty (brakes tires batteries etc) RoadTrek warranty the unit against water leaks and electrical wiring they put in, the solor convertor and batteries inverter is cover by the Manufacture this is normal in the RV World.
The dealer you buy from will do the first year check. If they are tell you that putting 4 batteries under the bed is ok I would not buy from them I would run away.
Call Roadtrek they are very good on answering question in one day or check Roadtreking.com The two extra batteries they install are located under the back in a tool box with ventilation. Batteries normal last about 5 years I would not want a 6 battery bill. Batteries are not maintain free a good check is 80% at 12V starting at 13.5v I have see batteries get very HOT and exploded if incorrect chargers or low water. Do some Reading on what 4 Batteries will do
normal 3 to 4 Days. The biggest power is Coffee pot, A/C or Micowave. I have live in a 30 AMP Class C Full time Starting 2007. If you start the engine it will charge the battery in 1 to 2 hours. Hope this Helps Safe Travels
Davydd
Explorer
Jun 13, 2014
You are welcome to try them. I won't. :)

BTW, on the Sprinter those ribs are not indentations.
wincrasher65
Explorer
Jun 12, 2014
Davydd wrote:
Those flexible panels are too flexible to span those ribs that are 10-12" o.c. You would have to put them on a stiff panel then provide anchors for the panels and thus back to regular modules. Then on a stiff panel the same concerns of cupping come back.

In looking at the Advanced RV photo and comparing it to AM Solar's line-up, those two panel modules might be 320 watts total and possibly this panel.

GO160 Solar Panel

I think those ribs are actually indentations - that's why I was saying tape it to the flat spots and span those indentations - they are probably around 1 1/2" wide.

That is a very nice panel. But 2 will take alot of space.
mrlandlord
Explorer
Jun 12, 2014
So, I am getting a switch installed that will only allow for the front two 6V AGM to be used or the back four 12V batteries to be used. This will ensure that each battery block is charged at the same rate. Now we have to figure out where this is to be installed. I am guessing near the inverter or the solar charging panel in the back.
Davydd
Explorer
Jun 12, 2014
Those flexible panels are too flexible to span those ribs that are 10-12" o.c. You would have to put them on a stiff panel then provide anchors for the panels and thus back to regular modules. Then on a stiff panel the same concerns of cupping come back.

In looking at the Advanced RV photo and comparing it to AM Solar's line-up, those two panel modules might be 320 watts total and possibly this panel.

GO160 Solar Panel
wincrasher65
Explorer
Jun 12, 2014
I like the light weight aspect of them and that they don't stick up. Not keen on what the Wynns did with the wiring though.

I wonder if the cupping that AM is experiencing is from heat expansion? If you tape something down too much, then where does the material expand to? I think there may be a better technique to mounting them.

I would think that they could be taped down in the same orientation as the panels on the van pic above. Leave the grooves in the van roof open so water passes underneath them. That would also leave some room for expansion. Don't think they need 100% sealant under them, or along the edges.
Davydd
Explorer
Jun 12, 2014
Those solar panels look interesting. I'm not sure of the details yet on solar panels. This is an example of one Advanced RV installation.

The unibody vans like the Sprinter don't have those nice flat roofs like that Class A RV Youtube video shows for glue down panels. AM Solar says they are not ready for prime time.

Flexible 100W Solar Panel
wincrasher65
Explorer
Jun 12, 2014
Davydd - check this video out - yes, it's simplistic, but check out the panels.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wNAHAtaoHpE

http://www.gonewiththewynns.com/flexible-solar-panels-rv
Davydd
Explorer
Jun 12, 2014
mrlandlord wrote:
So, based on the feedback so far, I am going to get some clarification again on mixing 6V and 12V batteries. I thought it was a big no no as well, but the dealer is swearing that this is the way to go. Their extended warranty will cover all of it from day 1. Their selling point was this is peace of mind and no matter what happens, you are covered.

But, I am skeptical on this setup as well. The CS I am buying has all the E-Trek - solar, engine gen, 3500w inverter. I am going to call them out tomorrow and if I am not convinced, I am going to tell them to lose the 6v batteries in the hood.

All the feedback is helpful, but I still want to overbuild this. Sorry. You all should see my home electronic / computer setup. It is just as ridiculous.

I can understand overbuild. It kind of gives you a peace of mind and insurance. We tentatively look to be going to 4 lithium-ion batteries (400A) coupled with maybe 300 watts of solar and an 2800W Outback inverter. With that setup we probably would not have to worry about draining our batteries (based on our 9 years B experience) unless running air conditioning which we rarely do in our travels but supposedly could get up to 3 hours or a lunch stop in my mind. Still we will have controllers that will shut off the batteries from draining and auto start of the diesel engine with aux alternator to charge the batteries (no propane or generator). We will have an AC/DC compressor fridge, induction stovetop, diesel powered heat and hot water, coffee maker, TV, Maxxair ceiling fan, convection microwave and 100% LED lighting.

Your dealer is swearing it is the way to go but is also the dealer that sold you a bill of goods that you can drain Northstar batteries 100%. Go to the Northstar Battery website and check for yourself. You are also putting all your warranty eggs in one basket. I would want to know what that means. What happens if the dealer goes under selling something that doesn't ultimately work?

In theory lithium-ion batteries can be drained down to 20% over 1000 cycles and would lose about 30% of their maximum charge over that time. Northstar claims 20% over 400 cycles with their AGMs but doesn't say what the end result would be. I'm skeptical as I have had AGM batteries in the past. They deteriorated notably fast at 50%. I'm using two lead/acid batteries right now and monitor them carefully and so far have rarely, if ever, gone down to 50% and mostly maintained 80% overnight and they have served me well for four seasons so far. I can boondock up to 5 days for sure in one place with what I have without running our generator. I have the techniques down. With what we are getting, I hope it will be a no-brainer, but then again might have more free rein to break from our 40 years of tent camping frugality experience out in the wilderness.
Sukiesmom
Explorer
Jun 12, 2014
We just bought our 2014 CS. Solar panel, two batteries. Our initial thought was to get 4 batteries but the dealer (who has a RS himself) convinced us that two are plenty. So far, we have found that the batteries are always full during the day and 2/3 full at night (we don't really watch a lot of TV so the only draw will be the lights). When day light comes the next day, batteries are filled up to full again. Fridge works great. Freezer is more than enough for ice cream. Hope this helps.