Multiple methods
1: if the condensers are clean, and the batteries are full, and I do not heat water, cool food or watch TV, 30 amps is just precisely enough (27 actually) to run both my A/Cs.
2: Some Rv's have an Energy manager (Load shedder) system that can alternate between Front and Rear A/C.. Running first one, then the other, on 30 amps.
3: There used to be a company Power Solutions RV, however their web page has not been accessable for a long time, and there still is another comnpany that makes a much more complex and expensive product. The following is the PSRV design simplified
Existing RV wiring
{lots of stuff} (see below) ========wire to rear A/C======Rear A/C
Modify as follows:
{Stuff}======xx========A/C
{Stuff}=======Outlet/plug={20 amp breaker}= =======A/C
Now the plug and outlet (and the breaker) are in a box in an outside compartmetn.
On the PSRV the outlet was a pigtail and the PLUG was a fixed inlet but you can do it the other way around,, Just be sure to use 20 amp rated hardware
Normal use,, plug goes into outlet RV works exactly as designed/shipped
30 amp site
Pull plug, and using a 12ga Extension cord extend it to the 20 amp outlet in the park's pedistal..
I said "Lots of stuff"
Shore cord, Generator (if any) Automatic transfer seitch (If any) Breaker box, and all the other electrical stuff in teh RV
How I did it
I disconnected the line from the circuit breaker,, ran a new line to an outside compartment,,, Ran a line back from the outside and hooked up in a junction box (Breaker can be added to the junction box) NOTE: Wire nut connections between flexible (Stranded0 and solid (Romex) wire are not the world's best invention, i've had two of them fail.. that was one.
