RV Residential Refrigerators
The class A group probably has more experience with this, since the Resi-refers are just now coming to the trailer industry. I am wondering if there are any consistent problems with having this type o...
Forum Discussion
I dumped my Norcold 1200 LRIM last year after the second cooling unit went bad. I installed a residential refer in its place. I run the residential from my modified sine inverter and so far no problems. Regarding battery life, etc. when dry camping, the original Norcold used propane for heat, but also required a 12 volt DC source for the control board. When plugged into shore power, the Norcold used 120 volt AC, and also the 12 volt DC, again, for the control board.
I made several test measurements on the Norcold, and then on the residential refer, and I truly believe the residential uses less power than the Norcold. The amp draw for the residential compressor is 1.8 amps which works back to 18 DC amps from the batteries. However, the residential runs infrequently and keeps the food much colder. I have actually measured the freezer at -20 degrees when cranked all the way up.
Getting rid of the open flame and less than acceptable cooling capability with the Norcold was a big plus to me.
I made several test measurements on the Norcold, and then on the residential refer, and I truly believe the residential uses less power than the Norcold. The amp draw for the residential compressor is 1.8 amps which works back to 18 DC amps from the batteries. However, the residential runs infrequently and keeps the food much colder. I have actually measured the freezer at -20 degrees when cranked all the way up.
Getting rid of the open flame and less than acceptable cooling capability with the Norcold was a big plus to me.
