Should I buy a Class C or not for this specific situation?

Congratulations! I hope this works out really well for you and proves to be as trouble-free as possible.

And thanks, too, for taking the time to give us an update.

I just bought a 1999 Challenger 31'. I went for a Class A for several reasons. Water tanks are inside heated basements in most cases, I don't have to reach under the MH to dump tanks, They are less prone to leaks in the cabover section. I gave had A,s B, and C. over 51 years of RVing, as well as TT, pop=ups and a Hi-Lo. I didn't want to spend much money at my age (82) so when I have to sell it I won't lose much.

Our 2004 Class C, bought new, required replacement of roof AC unit, fridge, converter/charger, fresh water pump and RV generator fuel system work at around 10 years old. Tires usually need to be replaced every 5-6 years when they become unsafe. House batteries last about 4 years properly maintained. Figure in cost of storage if you can't park on your property. There is also cost of insurance, annual DMV costs, periodic smog testing, and financing charges if you can't pay cash, and cost of fuel, propane, RV camp fees, and incidentals. Buying, owning and maintaining and using motorhome is expensive. Many of us only drive our motorhomes some 5000 miles per year camping and touring, etc., the rig sits unused most of the time. Will you and your wife
continue to enjoy using the rig. Kids get older and lose interest in family fun. All factors to be considered when deciding to get into RV'ing along with basic type (class) year, model, size, floor plan, and features. Motorhome rental costs may seem ridiculous but may be a lot cheaper than owning.

jefffoxsr wrote:
2. As a result of having to buy a unit about 10 years old (due to budget constraints) I worry that it would need a lot of repairs both inside and mechanically and therefore would be troublesome and costly. What is your experience with units 10 to 15 years old?

I would be less concerned about (chassis) mechanical repairs than repairs of the "body". At 10 years, it is time for a new roof. NOT a re-coat, a peel off, inspect for rot and replace. If you are up to the challenge this can be DIY.

If there have been any roof/window leaks then you need to carefully inspect for mold/rot in the walls and in the floors. If the floors are soft, walk away.

If the unit is on a Ford E350 or E450 V10 chassis do a double take on inspection of the exhaust manifold studs. Especially the passenger side rear studs are most prone to breaking.

Thank you very much for all the great information. I greatly appreciate it and will use it.

Jeff Fox

We feel your pain. We wanted quality (4 season),low mileage, garage stored, well maintained, knowing it would be 10 or more years old. We checked all of those boxes.....but, went well over the $30K mark! It’s doable for $30K or under.....if you’re patient, spend lots of time internet searching, be willing to travel to get the unit.....and drop the 4-season capabilities! Good things come to those that are patient! memtb

OP, rvs are expensive now, percentage rates are low for home EQ loans. That teamed with covid is driving up prices new and used.
I have owned the same type of rvs that you have before moving to a class C.
My question is, have you researched the class C forums to see the issues that people have had and what to expect from a class C ?

The E450 may very well not have the nice ride and easy handling that you are used to driving pickups, like your truck/trailer or TC combos that you operated.

Just prior to all this started , in 2018 I moved to a 'C' because a small drivable rv fits my lifestyle for day trips .
At the end of the day I am happy with my rig but it took time and money to improve it.

Do some research on this topic. Many 'C' owners had to experiment with tire pressure and shop around for a 'good alignment shop' that would give it a positive caster alignment. Then felt the need to add more aftermarket add-ons due to crosswind related issues and that can get into thousands of dollars.

Expect some noise while driving. The interior driving experience was more noisy because I could hear everything rattling around inside. The 450 tends to pound. I have so much payload, I have to load it up to make it ride better. Carrying full water etc.

* Watch the distance from rear axle to bumper. My rear hitch hangs low, the long rear overhang prevents me from backing into my home driveway because the rear hitch drags on my driveway apron chewing it up. When I pull head-in I just make it by 1/2" to not drag on the street. So make sure you can park it where you need to park it.

Sometimes I scrape the overhang at campsites, dump stations and gas station aprons. You always have to be aware and take it on an angle. You won't have the clearance you had driving a TC, that's for sure. Expect to be restricted if you plan to drive on dirt roads where you might need ground clearance .

*make sure you leave yourself extra available cash. With the assembly and quality of an rv , a lot can happen to an rv in 10 months never mind 10 years.

My Minnie Winnie was 10 yrs. old when I bought it from a dealer. Made sure that I inspected it as if I were buying from a private party. Dealer said I was wasting my time and he proved to be correct, but I wanted to be sure. Before closing deal I made sure that 6 new tires was written in the deal. It is now 16 yrs. old and still looks new inside and out. I remove old sealant and replace with new every year along the roof edges and vents. Minor repairs that I did myself include replacing water heater thermostat and circuit board and replacing battery isolator. Oil is changed every 5000 miles. Major repair was slide out actuators failing and no replacements could be found. Repair facility rewired slide out to by-pass actuators and installed two switches - one for each motor. If you are handy and knowledgeable go ahead and purchase an older unit. Oh, took me almost 2 years to find one in the condition I wanted. Be patient.

jdc1 wrote:
Find a shorter class A. With driver and passenger seats turned around, you'll utilize 100% of the space up there vs a class C, thus you can get a shorter unit.

My front seats both turn around, plus I have a full queen sized bed up above them, so I utilize 200% of that space.