stay away from carbureted?

jotityra wrote:
I either have to adjust my budget, or my standards.

Maybe I missed it, but what is your budget ? Are you looking for a particular size or style ?
I would think that if you're around a $9-10,000 budget you should be able to find a 24er or so from the late 90's to early 2,000,s.

There are a number of users of this forum that seem to have all or most of the skills, work space, tools and time to do engine, transmission, cooling system, brake system, RV body, plumbing, electrical and electronic, cabinet maker and interior decorating skills needed to turn an old beater RV into a trustworthy presentable creampuff usable for cross country touring and pleasurable camping.FOR THE REST OF US, I recommend saving your money until you can buy around a 3 year old nice looking rig with everything working and set aside a bank account for repairs,tire, and other owner expenses. Tires usually need replacement every 4-6 years. Fridges and Air conditioners and awnings can need replacement at 10 years old depending on use. Generators and house batteries need periodic maintenance. RV'ing is expensive with an old or new rig.

jotityra wrote:
I either have to adjust my budget, or my standards.

We need to remember this in considering the original question. Sure, I like MPI and TorqShift. Would really like to have an one on a GM4500 chassis. But if my budget is say $7000 for sake of discussion, what do I do? Choices seem to be:

A. Later model Rat
B. Earlier model Clean
C. Don't RV

This assumes:

A. Everybody's rational in setting their price
B. There are limits on shopping time and travel distance

But, factoring in Good Fortune (which I call Divine Providence), there are "Love Coaches" out there. Think of the country song "Riding with Private Malone" where the "Old Chevy" for sale turns out to be a cherry '66 Corvette under a tarp in a barn.

Love Coach is hard to define but immediately apparent when you see one.

jotityra wrote:
that was a bust. the pictures in the ad were not even recent. it was pretty rough. it ran great and shifted good. just there was so much caulk around everything, the side panels were delaminating, he told me the air worked and then when we got there he said it didn't. keep on looking i guess. I either have to adjust my budget, or my standards.

Bummer, Dude. Keep looking. They are out there.

that was a bust. the pictures in the ad were not even recent. it was pretty rough. it ran great and shifted good. just there was so much caulk around everything, the side panels were delaminating, he told me the air worked and then when we got there he said it didn't. keep on looking i guess. I either have to adjust my budget, or my standards.

Be sure the BODY doesn't leak, that the leak the owner disclosed was properly repaired, and it's still holding.
Suggest finding an RV shop/dealer who can pressure test it in the presence of Seller and Buyer. Should cost $100-150.
I'm not a skilled negotiator, but you might want to do your price dickering before testing. Look it all over first, drive it, get questions enswered, but here's my thinking... If it does leak, you can walk away or try to bargain down. If it doesn't leak, seller won't want to come down or come down any farther.
Compare Chassis Year with Coach Model Year. If it's a "1993 coach" then chassis could be '93 but likely '92. 1992 was the first of the body style we see today. The rounded look. Ford had already gone to EFI. I thought that was '89 but some here say '88. I think (not positive) the Overdrive came when they changed the body style ('92 chassis year) and it was called E4OD. Then at some point the 460 went from EFI (throttle body) to Multiport Injection (8 injectors MPI) through 1996 when they (sob...) built the last of them.
I think you'd get good technology out of a 1992-93 chassis. Just be sure it's got a solid "house" on it.

Going to look at a '93 tomorrow. Fuel injected and overdrive. I wonder what year ford put the overdrive trans in the class c's. its only 24' but it looks nice. Talked to the guy and he sounds pretty straight forward. Buyer beware though. 93 hornet

I would never consider a carbureted engine because I had a motor home with one. I sold it six years ago in 2007. The ethanol in all of today's gasoline had me replacing a particular diaphragm that was expensive to purchase and a pain for me to replace. I had to do that every-other year.

Another consideration is that fuel injection is computer controlled. It does good compensating for high altitude conditions for maximum power with thinner air. It also does better starting the engine at high altitude. Drivability will be much better when climbing mountain byways.

Other considerations is that carbureted engines are old chassis using other old technologies. They will have rear drum brakes that will need adjusting on occasion and no ABS. They won't have air bags and other improved safety features. Many will have weakened frames from fatique and rust.

I'll never go back to a carb or any chassis older than around a Y2K but that is a personal opinion. Obviously others here feel differently.

I have a diesel but in my trucks, cars ,lawn mowers and anything that uses gas I put seafoam in the gas/diesel it does make a difference. The new gas is junk and it will foul plugs ,eat o-rings etc. The next time you are a auto parts store check it out.

A well tuned carb. in an old V8 will run fine.

My 1983 Jamboree is build on an E350 with Holley based carb. It wouldn't pass smog (Ca.), so I had the carb rebuilt with a modern kit (alcohol resistant parts) and put fresh gaskets on the EGR plate/riser/carb. It passed smog with flying colors.

The ignition system is made better by adding an adjustable advance module. I wouldn't buy an HEI distrib. Once you have rebuilt the carb. and added the adjustable advacer, it will run great!

You really don't get any better mileage with EFI conversions on older engines because you aren't altering compression. I would not be afraid of another carbureted motorhome.

Jose