Hello. I have a 1996 Monaco Dynasty. In previous post I wrote that I had seen three states to Florida by tow truck. The same problem occurs which is the 4D batteries lose power after 2 days. I can keep the RV running by charging the 4D batteries each night but that may not always be possible. First fix king cruise rebuild...RV broke down. The alternator has been changed three times. First time it was determined by mechanic that the 140 alternator and battery isolator s/b changed to a 200 amp. RV broke down again. I am now at Alliance in Wildwood Florida now. IThey thought they had fixed the problem by a loose wire and determining that new alternator was faulty as it was at 7amp. So new alternator. I kept telling everyone along the way that their solution was not right. So this morning brought up the jacks although back left jack had to be assisted by crane (need to get new back jack with springs) and RV would not start. 4D batteries were showing a low load and battery gauge was showing 10 amps. This is the same problem that the RV has had all along whereby the 4D batteries run so low that they have no power to go forward. Now at 3:00 I try to turn on the engine and it starts right up with battery guage showing14. I checked 4D batteries and the load and charge is fine.I am staying at Alliance still waiting for Monday to start again. Anyone had any solutions?

Ok, I'm a little confused. You've seen 3 states to Florida by tow truck? What does that mean? You had to raise your jack by a crane? Really? And your battery gauge shows 10 amps? And then it shows 14? You have an ammeter? I'm assuming, since this is an on going problem, you know what you are talking about, but I also have to assume you're talking about volts...not amps. Please clear that up for us.Obviously, you have a large drain on your batteries. I would turn off all the breakers and then measure the voltage on your batteries (if they're charged it will read about 12.6 volts) and if you have an ammeter (which the above shows that you do, and if you don't, then get one), then measure the amperage draw at the batteries with just one breaker turned on. If no amperage draw, turn that breaker back off and turn on another. Eventually, you'll find which breaker causes the amperage draw and knowing what the breaker supplies, you should be able to determine what is drawing down your batteries.If (I'm assuming again) you are actually measuring voltage (not amps) and it shows 10 vdc, the batteries are dead. If it shows 14vdc, then something is charging the batteries (converter/inverter/charger or alternator). A full charge will be 12.5 or 12.6 vdc with nothing on. If the converter/inverter/charger is indeed charging, once the batteries are at full charge, you should see about 13.4 vdc.I hope I'm not insulting your intelligence by this reply...just trying to figure out exactly what you are talking about,Ron

A shot in the dark but are they putting the right alternator on there.Most coaches have a Duvac system or Bird system which requires an alternator with two circuits. A regular truck alternator won't work.

Monaco coaches of that era had manual mirror heat switches, meaning they did not automatically turn off. Have you checked to see if the mirror switch is on. As mentioned, has anyone put an ammeter on your coach, with everything turned off, to see what the draw is on your batteries. It will not be zero because of your CO and LP detectors, as well as you radio memory, but it should be less than 1/2 amp.

It is nearly impossible for new comers to try to help when you keep starting new threads about the same problem. I believe this is the 3rd so someone wanting to help would need to search out your other threads to get up to speed.You left "lanerd" in the dust right at the get go.

rgatijnet1 wrote:Monaco coaches of that era had manual mirror heat switches, meaning they did not automatically turn off. Have you checked to see if the mirror switch is on. As mentioned, has anyone put an ammeter on your coach, with everything turned off, to see what the draw is on your batteries. It will not be zero because of your CO and LP detectors, as well as you radio memory, but it should be less than 1/2 amp.mirrors on or not they do not equate to having 3 alternators replaced nor have anything to do with batterys showing dead and then like a miracle there fine and it startssounds more like a combination of bad mechanics and misdiagnosing all the while the original problem still existssounds more like a main battery power or ground cable is not connecting correctlyI will assume you meant to say I have Seen three states by tow truck on the way to Florida ????In previous post I wrote that I had seen three states to Florida by tow truck.

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14 Replies

Bill_Satellite
Explorer II
Dec 03, 2016
It is nearly impossible for new comers to try to help when you keep starting new threads about the same problem. I believe this is the 3rd so someone wanting to help would need to search out your other threads to get up to speed.
You left "lanerd" in the dust right at the get go.
rgatijnet1
Explorer III
Dec 03, 2016
Monaco coaches of that era had manual mirror heat switches, meaning they did not automatically turn off. Have you checked to see if the mirror switch is on.
As mentioned, has anyone put an ammeter on your coach, with everything turned off, to see what the draw is on your batteries. It will not be zero because of your CO and LP detectors, as well as you radio memory, but it should be less than 1/2 amp.
slickest1
Explorer
Dec 03, 2016
A shot in the dark but are they putting the right alternator on there.
Most coaches have a Duvac system or Bird system which requires an alternator with two circuits. A regular truck alternator won't work.
lanerd
Explorer II
Dec 03, 2016
Ok, I'm a little confused. You've seen 3 states to Florida by tow truck? What does that mean? You had to raise your jack by a crane? Really? And your battery gauge shows 10 amps? And then it shows 14? You have an ammeter? I'm assuming, since this is an on going problem, you know what you are talking about, but I also have to assume you're talking about volts...not amps. Please clear that up for us.

Obviously, you have a large drain on your batteries. I would turn off all the breakers and then measure the voltage on your batteries (if they're charged it will read about 12.6 volts) and if you have an ammeter (which the above shows that you do, and if you don't, then get one), then measure the amperage draw at the batteries with just one breaker turned on. If no amperage draw, turn that breaker back off and turn on another. Eventually, you'll find which breaker causes the amperage draw and knowing what the breaker supplies, you should be able to determine what is drawing down your batteries.

If (I'm assuming again) you are actually measuring voltage (not amps) and it shows 10 vdc, the batteries are dead. If it shows 14vdc, then something is charging the batteries (converter/inverter/charger or alternator). A full charge will be 12.5 or 12.6 vdc with nothing on. If the converter/inverter/charger is indeed charging, once the batteries are at full charge, you should see about 13.4 vdc.

I hope I'm not insulting your intelligence by this reply...just trying to figure out exactly what you are talking about,

Ron

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