Sumo Springs Cost
Planning to install Sumos on my Allegro, anyone know approximately the cost to install, front and rear? Already have an estimate to purchase them at e-Trailer for just over $1k.
Forum Discussion
I did mine on a 2016 F53 22,000# chassis and you are correct. Just a lot of grunt work. Fronts are a no-brainier.
As you can guess the rear wheel removal is the hardest part but I knew what I was getting into. That and the fact that my storage barn has 1 1/2 crushed rock so I keep some plywood down to work on. Plus the fact I'm a short, portly, old guy with bad hips.
I spent about four hours the first day getting the wheels off, getting jacks set and doing one side complete. Second side was faster as I knew what I was doing. Probably sent less than three hours and that included cleaning the wheels, hubs, studs and remounting the wheels.
Wheel removal was done with a 33mm socket, 3/4" Harbor Freight flex bar, 12" (16"?) extension with about 40" of 1" pipe for a cheater bar. I have an old scissor jack that I use to support the extension to keep it square to the nuts. Had a little trouble getting one side off the hub due to rust. Cleaned them up on assembly and put a touch of Never-Seize on the hub.
Support the rear of the coach on some stands and let the axle hang free. You will need to raise the axle up to get the install right. Drill the frame with good high-speed bit and cutting oil. I was concerned about the drilling of the frame but it was easier than I thought. I put some backer behind a few holes so when I went through I wouldn't hit lines and wire.
E-Trailer had some good videos on the install and IIRC Sumo did too.
I did see a post once about someone saying they were able to get an angle drill in between the wheels and frame to drill it. I never could find it again when I went to do mine. I suppose it would work if you had a short bit and a method to put pressure on the drill.
As you can guess the rear wheel removal is the hardest part but I knew what I was getting into. That and the fact that my storage barn has 1 1/2 crushed rock so I keep some plywood down to work on. Plus the fact I'm a short, portly, old guy with bad hips.
I spent about four hours the first day getting the wheels off, getting jacks set and doing one side complete. Second side was faster as I knew what I was doing. Probably sent less than three hours and that included cleaning the wheels, hubs, studs and remounting the wheels.
Wheel removal was done with a 33mm socket, 3/4" Harbor Freight flex bar, 12" (16"?) extension with about 40" of 1" pipe for a cheater bar. I have an old scissor jack that I use to support the extension to keep it square to the nuts. Had a little trouble getting one side off the hub due to rust. Cleaned them up on assembly and put a touch of Never-Seize on the hub.
Support the rear of the coach on some stands and let the axle hang free. You will need to raise the axle up to get the install right. Drill the frame with good high-speed bit and cutting oil. I was concerned about the drilling of the frame but it was easier than I thought. I put some backer behind a few holes so when I went through I wouldn't hit lines and wire.
E-Trailer had some good videos on the install and IIRC Sumo did too.
I did see a post once about someone saying they were able to get an angle drill in between the wheels and frame to drill it. I never could find it again when I went to do mine. I suppose it would work if you had a short bit and a method to put pressure on the drill.
