Sway on a gasser

>>>>Biggest problem I've seen with coaches that have this problem, is with how much tail there is behind the rear wheels for wagging the dog.
If much, then it's never really going to go away, but can be helped with the various addon's offered, including, but not limited to, a large rear sway bar. After that, the best thing you can do, is to slow down. One shouldn't be in a hurry when driving a Motel, anyway. If you're in a hurry, never stop in a restaurant for meals, unless it's after you're parked for the night. Also for fixing dinner within. Drive late and stay in a Walmart, for some sleep and so that there's no real setup to contend with.
I said, if you're really in a hurry and since you don't really gain much time, driving over 55mph or so. Just burn a lot more fuel, is all. <<<


Agreed. I have 3 "rules" so far (I'm sure there will be more since I'm a noobie here)

1. Never be in a hurry
2. If you think you are in a hurry refer back to rule #1
3. The 3:30 rule - no more than 330 miles a day, and get to where you're going by 3:30pm.

Al

3 dog nights wrote:
OK, my first class A. Moved from a fifth wheel, towed by a dually. Wife does not like the sway/rocking we are getting. I've been on line checking options and have four solutions. Which would you do first? or open to your ideas.

Safe-T-Plus
Spring kit(?)
Koni - shocks
Helwig Rear Sway Bar

Biggest problem I've seen with coaches that have this problem, is with how much tail there is behind the rear wheels for wagging the dog.
If much, then it's never really going to go away, but can be helped with the various addon's offered, including, but not limited to, a large rear sway bar. After that, the best thing you can do, is to slow down. One shouldn't be in a hurry when driving a Motel, anyway. If you're in a hurry, never stop in a restaurant for meals, unless it's after you're parked for the night. Also for fixing dinner within. Drive late and stay in a Walmart, for some sleep and so that there's no real setup to contend with.
I said, if you're really in a hurry and since you don't really gain much time, driving over 55mph or so. Just burn a lot more fuel, is all.

We did the cheap handling fix both front and rear on our F53 chassis and after putting new tires on, had an alighment and Saf-T-Plus steering stabalizer added. We're good.

Dennis12 wrote:
Hold her wide and let her eat. You will get use to it if tire pressures are right

X2! Been driving class A’s since 1990. It’s not a Corvette, relax and enjoy the comforts.

Koni shocks and SumoSprings to start.

Semi push and pull is from the box being pushed and pulled over the rear axle. Rear track bar keeps the body and axle aligned, helps to minimize that. Sway is not that, sway is the box tilting, sway bars fix that.

Companies that make steering dampers claim the devices help maintain control in case of a front tire blow out. Is this claim demonstrable? Have experiments shown these devices work as claimed or are the claims based on supposition?

3 dog nights wrote:
OK, my first class A. Moved from a fifth wheel, towed by a dually. Wife does not like the sway/rocking we are getting. I've been on line checking options and have four solutions. Which would you do first? or open to your ideas.

Safe-T-Plus
Spring kit(?)
Koni - shocks
Helwig Rear Sway Bar

Only one item on the list will directly affect sway and just by chance it has the word sway in its name. CHP will do the same at a much lower cost.

Safe-T-Plus - helps with lane holding, straight line driving performance and steering during a front tire failure.

Spring Kit - helps restore ride height loss due to worn primary suspension springs. Will also potentially stiffen the ride.

Koni Shocks - primary effect is suspension bounce and softening the initial shock of suspension reaction to poor roads.

Helwig Rear Sway Bar - Either a direct replacement or additional sway bar that adds additional counter force to body roll or sway.

Other options that may help besides the CHF include supplemental airbags front and rear, Sumosprings also front and rear. You can help to minimize body movement but you won't totally eliminate it. These beasts are just a bit to heavy above the frame rails.

If you really want to go crazy there are complete suspension replacements available for the Ford chassis. One is a hybrid airbag/smaller leaf spring for both front and rear axles and the other is a liquid spring set up for the rear axle.

Keep an eye on the rear sway bar bushings and bracket hardware. The bushings will degrade in about another two or three more years to the point that they actually dissolve. Regarding the hardware they have been owners reports of the fasteners loosening up and clamps actually coming off while going down the road. No real pattern so can say if the problem is a particular year of chassis model. Just something to check as part of normal routine.

An update from last weekends trip - handling was much improved, but still a bit loose. My wife mentioned how much I was moving the steering wheel to stay straight. So a new Bilstein Steering Dampener is on order to replace the one that the shop removed, as it was binding and causing the RV to pull to the right. (alignment was checked before we left and was spot-on) I had pumped the airbags up to 70psi, and the body roll went down a lot. It was much easier to drive. BTW - had the RV weighed and was 6150 lbs front, 12,020 lbs rear.

I also ordered a Hellwig rear swaybar. So thanks to everyone for their help and comments. Today, if I needed to drive it on a long trip I now could, but I am hopeful the addition of the steering dampener and sway bar will make it easier.

Al

Front alignment, CHF, Saftey steer and Helwig rear sway bars.
I saw a great improvement by doing this.