We started with a small bumper-pull trailer behind a 1/2 ton, then a 37' 5'ver behind a big 1-ton, now a 40' diesel pusher. We've been towing our dinghy 4 wheels down - first a Grand Cherokee, then an Elantra Touring, now an Elantra GT. We'll be full-timing in 2014. I've toyed with the idea of pulling a 20' or 22' trailer behind the coach, with our car inside... along with a bunch of other stuff: her craft stuff, my tools, our projects. For those of you who've had some experience with trailering behind a motorhome I have a few questions. 1) What issues do you have with "parking/storing it" when you're not on the road? 2) Wish you'd gotten a bigger one, or a smaller one? 3) What are the 3 most invaluable things you carry in your trailer that you'd have to do without otherwise? 4) Regret it, or not? Thanks, in advance, for the comments!

If you can, put a hitch on your Elantra so you can unload it and use it to spot the trailer when it's empty. Carry a small floor jack and a lug nut cross wrench. If your back up camera doesn't show the hitch get something like the "iBall hitch cam".

IMO you will get more input from the class A forum as those folks pull some big trailer behind their MH. Ask the mod to move you. Someone probably has the same combo. IMO your biggest issue is total length.

If you're looking at enclosed trailers to haul a car, you need a minimum of 18' to fit the car and still have a little room around it so it does not rub. Typical trailers have a 6' door height - If your vehicle is taller You can order many trailers in 6" taller increments until you have sufficient clearance. Remember the taller and longer the wall, the more it will catch side winds.You will be able to store things along the side as long as they are well secured, but anything wider than 1' will have to be in front, behind, or inside the car.You will want an escape door on the side of the trailer so you can get out of the vehicle once you pull into the trailer - This door allows you to open the driver door instead of climbing out of the window or rear hatch. I prefer wheel bonnet straps verses strapping down the frame. There are axle straps, but it can be hard to position them without damaging brake or electrical lines. Wheel straps can be cranked tightly keeping the wheels on the trailer floor so they do not move yet the vehicle can still be travel on the suspension while transporting it. Well placed recessed D-rings rated for at least 1/3 the maximum vehicle are better than using a track system although less flexible.Most enclosed trailers will weigh close to 3000 lbs empty which gives you 4000 lbs of payload on a cheaper dual 3500 lb trailer. If you think you are close to that weight, get the heavier framed 10,000 lb trailer with 5200 lb axles.I prefer torsion axles with a drop since each wheel can move independently, the center of gravity and load height is lower which also reduces the ramp angle. If you decide on a trailer longer than 20', consider not using drop axles because you will have height clearance issues with driveway curbs and even some speed bumps.Your pusher may be rated for the tongue weight, but I added a WDH on my truck (I have double truss 2' extension to clear my camper rear). I have a friction sway bar I never mounted because my setup is stable without it. Part of the stability will be the quality and design of the trailer the rest will be your hitch setup.

Moved to Class A forum from Towing at OP request.

I won't comment much on this but I am 72 YO and have towed a trailer for 50+ years. Would never go back to a flat tow. I don't currently have one but the escape door so you can exit your car is the best option you will ever get....But on the other hand I weigh over 200lbs and have a big, full sized Oldsmobile in there and I get out the car door fine. Never saw anyone get out the window or the hatch.....Don't buy a cheap, entry level trailer, you get what you pay for.

Trailering behind a Motorhome | Good Sam Community

21 Replies

spcorvette
Explorer
Oct 15, 2013
When it comes to an enclosed trailer, it is never big enough! You will always find more things to put in it!
Your limitation will be the total length. Most states are around 65' to 70'. Use an equalizing hitch and sway bar an you will be fine. Because of the wheelbase, a motorhome is one of the most stable vehicles to tow with. Believe it or not, the longer the trailer, the easyer it is to back up.
As far as storage when you are not using it, if you have room at your house, keep it there. They make great storage for your patio furniture in the winter too!.
When you do keep it in storage, BE SURE to lock the heck out of it! Thieves are everywhere and they don't care about you or your stuff.
Those nice latches that the lock go through on the doors; they are just blind rivets. You can pop them off with a screwdriver. Replace them with round head lag bolts and lock nuts on the inside. Those nice tongue locks; hit them with a sledge hammer and they break right off! Had this happen to me.
To secure, use a good lock on the moveable part of the tongue latch, a sealed tongue lock and most important, Chain the wheels together on one side. Locks won't stop a thief, many locks will slow them down or make them move on to the next target. Don't scrimp on the door locks either!
Hope this helps!
Terry
Passin_Thru
Explorer
Oct 15, 2013
Buy a custom made trlr 102 inch wide and you'll have room for the car and even if your pleasingly plump you can get in and out. I'd love to have an upper deck for a golfcart as so many RV parks are nasty about gas powered ATVs. YOu can even get removable decks or electric drop decks. Me, I'm just buying a house with fruit trees in FL and driving our Prius down from now on. LOL
Passin_Thru
Explorer
Oct 15, 2013
Read what BarneyS wrote and keep on posting.
zmotorsports
Explorer
Oct 14, 2013
ferndaleflyer wrote:
Thats the wonderful thing about us---some enjoy things others hate---and that is a good thing...I always made it a point to accept my neighbor. I might not like their blue house or boat in the yard but then again they might not like my DP and race car trailer and chickens in the back yard either....They, and I have a right to live as we want. Now lets hear it for HOAs!!!!!!!! Oh, did I mention that my neighbor is a mile away----and don't have a blue house?

I agree, how boring would it be if everyone had to have the same RV, same house or same trailer. Variety is nice.

Mike.
ferndaleflyer
Explorer III
Oct 14, 2013
Thats the wonderful thing about us---some enjoy things others hate---and that is a good thing...I always made it a point to accept my neighbor. I might not like their blue house or boat in the yard but then again they might not like my DP and race car trailer and chickens in the back yard either....They, and I have a right to live as we want. Now lets hear it for HOAs!!!!!!!! Oh, did I mention that my neighbor is a mile away----and don't have a blue house?
zmotorsports
Explorer
Oct 14, 2013
ferndaleflyer wrote:
Z we manufactured floor mounted pieces to lift your car enough to miss the trailer fenders when I had my shop. That street side door also provides the best breeze you ever saw in a trailer.......Most door car racers wouldn't be with out that door and you are the first I ever heard of that didn't like it--because of how it looked?

I fabricated some small aluminum ramps which I used for our street rod but didn't use them very often. I already know I am odd but I simply cannot stand the looks of that left side door over the wheel opening. Between the ramp door being down and the right front door open I get a nice breeze going through the trailer which helps with removing the fumes and heat from inside the trailer.

After having this trailer for 5 years now I don't miss that left side door one bit.

Mike.
alkillion
Explorer
Oct 12, 2013
To keep things legal, pay attention to your states licensing (as in Drivers License) requirements. In Texas, any Rv over 26000 gvw requires a different class of Drivers license. Also a trailer over 10000 gvw requires a different license.
Of course this will vary state to state.
tinkerer
Explorer
Oct 12, 2013
I pull a 20 ft open car trailer as we like to travel with my Polaris RZR and my Toyota Scion XB. We have never found a problem finding accommodations at camp ground but we usually frequent camp grounds away from big cities. My 330 Cat handles the load with ease. My choice of trailers for mu use would be a 10,000 gvw 24 ft all aluminum trailer. But everybody has different expectations.;)
rocmoc
Explorer
Oct 12, 2013
Behind my motorhomes, I have pulled enclosed race trailer, open show car trailer & flat/4 tires down. The best, IMHO & everyone is different, is 4 down. The trailer is such a pain to deal with finding a campsite, getting fuel, stopping en-route and driving in traffic. The shorter & lighter the tow the better. I still use the open show car trailer when taking the Jeep rock climbing or hauling Jeep & dirt bike at the same time. The times I do use the trailer, I am boondocking so campsite is not an issue. Everything else is still a problem!

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico
ferndaleflyer
Explorer III
Oct 12, 2013
Z we manufactured floor mounted pieces to lift your car enough to miss the trailer fenders when I had my shop. That street side door also provides the best breeze you ever saw in a trailer.......Most door car racers wouldn't be with out that door and you are the first I ever heard of that didn't like it--because of how it looked?