We have an Atwood 10 gallon elec/gas water heater. We are on like our 4th element in probably 2 years. We make sure tank is full before turning the electric switch on but we are going through these things like crazy. Any ideas why we are constantly burning the elements up???Thank you

How are you determining elements are BAD?Mine Atwood 10 gallon elec/gas is 10 yrs old and same OEM element.Only reason for them to burn out is energized w/o enough water to completely submerge them

When you install it, are you making sure the loop winds up vertical, and not horizontal?

Chris Bryant wrote:When you install it, are you making sure the loop winds up vertical, and not horizontal?OK Chris, I will play. HOW and WHY would that be a factor? How would you make sure it is either? Unless it is a OLD 4 bolt in system, it would be difficult to thread it in and make sure of the orientation. I would suspect they are NOT using Atwood parts. Doug

dougrainer wrote:Chris Bryant wrote:When you install it, are you making sure the loop winds up vertical, and not horizontal?OK Chris, I will play. HOW and WHY would that be a factor? How would you make sure it is either? Unless it is a OLD 4 bolt in system, it would be difficult to thread it in and make sure of the orientation. I would suspect they are NOT using Atwood parts. DougDoug, that's how I have been taught by the factory training. If you look at the element, you will see it is indexed by the writing- easy to align it correctly. If the loop is korizontal, trash short the element.

By any chance do you keep water in the heater when parked for period of time that could accumulate lime buildup on the element?Also do you ever run the tank empty where the element would be allowed to heat without water around it?

Water Heater Element | Good Sam Community

rgatijnet1
Explorer III
Feb 03, 2017
If the tank is NOT flushed of all debris and sediment when the heating element is changed, it will cause the heating element to fail sooner.
numberseven
Explorer
Feb 03, 2017
There are only two things that will burn up an element and show a hole.
First: is not enough water but sounds like you have looked at that.

Second: The system has a "T" stat that controls the temp and this switches a 12 volt relay on and off to control the 120 volts to the element. If the thermostat is stuck closed or if the relay is stuck closed, you will have power on the element all the time and destroy it.
cdl2
Explorer
Feb 03, 2017
number7....if the element is on all the time wouldn't the relief valve open?

OP....I'd check the watts of the original element compared to what you're putting in now.
tropical36
Explorer
Feb 03, 2017
grannyapple3 wrote:
We have an Atwood 10 gallon elec/gas water heater. We are on like our 4th element in probably 2 years. We make sure tank is full before turning the electric switch on but we are going through these things like crazy. Any ideas why we are constantly burning the elements up???

Thank you

Are you normally in one place for long periods of time and if so, what's the voltage? Also what is the voltage rating on the replacement units and I would like seeing at least 130vac for having some longevity.
These things usually last next to forever, unless without water or in an air pocket, so would always run a little water through the tank, if sitting without use for long periods and before turning it on.
hanko
Explorer
Feb 03, 2017
crappy Mexican or Chinese parts. Same reason our appliances fail now after 5 years instead of lasting 20 like they used to
hanko
Explorer
Feb 03, 2017
tropical36 wrote:
grannyapple3 wrote:
We have an Atwood 10 gallon elec/gas water heater. We are on like our 4th element in probably 2 years. We make sure tank is full before turning the electric switch on but we are going through these things like crazy. Any ideas why we are constantly burning the elements up???

Thank you

Are you normally in one place for long periods of time and if so, what's the voltage? Also what is the voltage rating on the replacement units and I would like seeing at least 130vac for having some longevity.
These things usually last next to forever, unless without water or in an air pocket, so would always run a little water through the tank, if sitting without use for long periods and before turning it on.

Come on tropical, electric water heaters are resistive loads, voltage has no bearing on longevity
hanko
Explorer
Feb 03, 2017
hanko wrote:
tropical36 wrote:
grannyapple3 wrote:
We have an Atwood 10 gallon elec/gas water heater. We are on like our 4th element in probably 2 years. We make sure tank is full before turning the electric switch on but we are going through these things like crazy. Any ideas why we are constantly burning the elements up???

Thank you

Are you normally in one place for long periods of time and if so, what's the voltage? Also what is the voltage rating on the replacement units and I would like seeing at least 130vac for having some longevity.
These things usually last next to forever, unless without water or in an air pocket, so would always run a little water through the tank, if sitting without use for long periods and before turning it on.

Come on tropical, electric water heaters are resistive loads, under voltage has no bearing on longevity
grannyapple3
Explorer
Feb 04, 2017
I would like to thank everyone for all of your reply's. Hanko I agree with the crappy Mexican or Chinese parts but I would think we might get lucky an get a decent one somewhere along the line. I am going to check thermostat but it seems to work fine on gas and I agree with cdl2 about the relief valve
tropical36
Explorer
Feb 04, 2017
hanko wrote:
tropical36 wrote:
grannyapple3 wrote:
We have an Atwood 10 gallon elec/gas water heater. We are on like our 4th element in probably 2 years. We make sure tank is full before turning the electric switch on but we are going through these things like crazy. Any ideas why we are constantly burning the elements up???

Thank you

Are you normally in one place for long periods of time and if so, what's the voltage? Also what is the voltage rating on the replacement units and I would like seeing at least 130vac for having some longevity.
These things usually last next to forever, unless without water or in an air pocket, so would always run a little water through the tank, if sitting without use for long periods and before turning it on.

Come on tropical, electric water heaters are resistive loads, voltage has no bearing on longevity

Why not hit it with 240vac then and just to see how long it will last?
You might just be reading me wrong here.
Light bulbs are resistive loads, as well, so try seeing how long one of them might last at 125vac, if only rated for 115vac.
Heavy duty incandescent bulbs, as they call them sometimes, are rated at 130vac and will last much longer, with various voltages put to them.
Another example are my night lights outside my home, that I run at half voltage and haven't changed one of these bulbs since inception, 13yrs ago. I also used to have some 250vac bulbs that would last next to forever and found some uses for them, as well.
Not sure what these water tank heating elements are rated for, but hopefully for at least 130vac.
Hank_MI
Explorer
Feb 05, 2017
grannyapple3 wrote:
I would like to thank everyone for all of your reply's. Hanko I agree with the crappy Mexican or Chinese parts but I would think we might get lucky an get a decent one somewhere along the line. I am going to check thermostat but it seems to work fine on gas and I agree with cdl2 about the relief valve

Atwood heaters have an ECO, thermal cutoff, for both the propane and electric side. If the temp gets too high on electric the electric ECO will open and cut voltage to the element. Once tripped, like a circuit breaker, it has to be manually reset. If the thermostat fails the ECO will open. So I don't think your thermostat is the problem since you haven't said anything about the ECO. This assumes no one has bypassed it.

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