1st the easy one....
Fresh water tank overfilled cause city valve was NOT in correct position and water leaked by thru Fill position
Water heater........
Well that could be many things and depends on which BRAND/Model it is.
Atwood uses 12 DC for controls on both electric and propane
Electric uses 12V DC to ON/OFF switch then to a relay that triggers the 120V AC to element. Could be tripped 120V Circuit breaker, could be a bad DC relay, could be a bad element.
Propane uses 12V DC to open gas valve and for spark ignition. Main flame has to prove it lit or circuit board will trip DC to gas valve. Could be dirty spark electrode, bad electrode/ceramic, bad ground
RED Fault light will come on
Atwood uses SAME set of t-stats for temp control on both electric and propane.
Propane lights but doesn't stay lit so the t-stats are good.
Also that circuit has a thermal fuse that shuts down ALL DC but it is good otherwise propane would not fire at all
Suburban uses separate sets of t-stats for electric or propane
120V AC set for the electric and 12V DC for propane
Electric not working could be tripped 1220V AC circuit breaker, bad on/off switch, bad t-stat/tripped t-stat (push to reset) or bad element
Propane not staying lit could be bad t-stat/tripped t-stat, bad spark electrode/ceramic, bad ground etc
Which brand/model is water heater?
When it lights on propane....is flame good/strong and blue?
IS spark electrode 'engulfed' in main flame...needs to be. And should glow red
More info on what it does, when it does it and what it doesn't do
