Water heater

Old-Biscuit wrote:
The SW6D was 'standard', the SW6DE was optional and wasn't ordered.
At least it is 'direct spark' vs pilot :B

As for the wheels...bling over functionality

I would have preferred functionality..

The SW6D was 'standard', the SW6DE was optional and wasn't ordered.
At least it is 'direct spark' vs pilot :B

As for the wheels...bling over functionality

Old Biscuit ,I agree,I will be removing the hotrod element and cleaning the heater tank.Apparently the RV came with the SW6D water heater. why in the bleep would the mfger not put the gas/electric heater in it!~!!My '99 model had both..they put alcoa aluminum wheels on it!!

T bone wrote:
Thanks for all the advice..I believe for now I will just connect to the nearby outlet and put a switch in the line..It just looks tacky to have a cord coming out of the cabinet to a plug in..


It is a Suburban heater..

It being a Suburban, have you pulled the Hott Rod out and checked whether or not previous owner got one with the small anode rod?

Without the anode rod......even the small one....lack of maintenance (flushing/rinsing tank)....age of tank (2009) you may have problems with tank leaking/internal deterioration
Previous owner did you no favors using that aftermarket heating element.

Thanks for all the advice..I believe for now I will just connect to the nearby outlet and put a switch in the line..It just looks tacky to have a cord coming out of the cabinet to a plug in..


It is a Suburban heater..

Your option is best but you can easily run that romex to a spot behind the heater (inside the MOTOR HOME) in fact if the gas/electric model you buy is a Atwood that's where you need to run it anyway,, install a 15/20 amp SIMPLEX (or duplex) outlet there and plug in the hott rod.. Electric heat normally takes about an hour to recover by the way (heat the water).

IF you choose a DUPLEX. you can drop a line down into the wet bay (Assuming enclsoed tanks) and plug in a string of C-9 old fashion (large size) Christmas tree lamps and perhaps a 100 Watt trouble light.. Plugged in via a T-Stat type outlet adapter (Sold at farm type stores for stock tank heaters) it does a great job of defrosting. (About 10 degrees worth in my case, one string of C-9's and a 100 watt caged lamp in the other end of the wet bay (Caged is in trouble lamp)

I too have the Hot Rod add on. Each Fall when I winterize I drain the hot water tank by removing the Hot Rod. At this time I take a few extra minutes to clean the calcium & hard water build up from the Hot Rod heating element.

When I added the Hot Rod I mounted a small 30 Amp breaker box adjacent to the existing motorhome breaker box. This add on breaker box has a long cord that is sufficient to reach the campground eclectic post. Most campgrounds have a 50A, 30A and 15A receptacle. From the add on breaker box I ran the Hot Rod wiring to a switch mounted near the bathroom vanity. The switch has a red light to indicate when it is on. This way we can easily turn the Hot Rod on or off as needed.

I might add that we only turn the propane & electric on for the hot water tank as needed. Overnight we never leave the hot water tank running.

T bone wrote:
,I might add,the HOT ROD performs very poorly,takes a long time to heat up!!

yep, I just plugged mine in when I got to the campground at 2-3-4 pm and by the time hot water was needed it was warm. if you need hot water sooner, just fire up the propane for a short while.
bumpy

I might add,the HOT ROD performs very poorly,takes a long time to heat up!!

Couple of things......

Hott Rod heat element is only 450W (6 gallon) and 675W (10 gallon) where OEM elements are 1440W--1500W so yes initial heating time is slower just using the Hott Rod.

Did PO routinely remove Hott Rod element and flush/clean tank and rod OR did PO install it and forget it so now tank is crudded up and element is coated????

Is this an Atwood Brand or Suburban Brand.
If Suburban Brand hopefully PO bought the Hott Rod kit with the incorporated anode rod----small that it may be but at least it has some corrosion protection.

As for swapping out for new combo unit.......

6 gallon combo fits where 6 gallon gas only (same for 10 gallon) provided you replace with same Brand (Atwood/Atwood----Suburban/Suburban)

New Atwood not only needs 110V power run for element it also needs 12V DC for turning AC element on.
12V DC (fused to ON/OFF switch to DC relay in junction box on back of tank where element is AND 110V AC (circuit breaker) to element.
The DC relay triggers the 110V AC to element.
Plus 12V DC wiring to connections for circuit board for electric.

Suburban......
110V AC (circuit breaker) to junction box on back of tank then to ON/OFF switch then to/thru 110V AC t-stats to element.
(Wiring from junction box to element is factory)


SO what is your pleasure?

I agree with the others. Hot rod enjoys a good reputation, is a great water heater and has been around along time. It has its own thermostat and heats water just as fast as an "electric" water heater. Just run a plug into an area close to the tank and don't spend a bunch of money needlessly. If it's not much trouble to plug into the one you're using now, I wouldn't even do that. Mine is plugged in all the time and I have an on/off switch under the bathroom sink. Off and on quick.