waxing

Waxing the roof is going to make it very dangerous if you have to go up there. The slightest moisture and it's going to be very slick. I just clean it.

lonewolf80 wrote:
Wow! what a roof Fire Up has! I too use Mop n Glo. Doesn't look like Fire Up's but does provide a layer of protection. I don't worry to much how dirty it gets as long as I clean it once every Spring then MnG it to a nice dull sheen.

lonewolf80,
I surely appreciate the nice comment. I'm not a big fan of floor waxes on my coach, roof or otherwise. I've been a regular car wax type person for ever. It's just a preference thing. Yep, a bit of work but, as you can see in the end, it's kind of worth it, at least to me it is.
Scott

Wow! what a roof Fire Up has! I too use Mop n Glo. Doesn't look like Fire Up's but does provide a layer of protection. I don't worry to much how dirty it gets as long as I clean it once every Spring then MnG it to a nice dull sheen.

I use 303 on my fiberglass roof.
I never let it get too dirty.
On my hand and knees, I spray it on and wipe with a paper towel.
Working from front to back where my ladder is. I do not stand up.
My roof looks like new. Gelcoat is like new. No caulking using my method.
Has a pretty good shine and last fairly long. Even in the rain.

I used Mop and glow on our Fiber glass roof MH after washing it. the wax will help with the streaks on the windows and does not take as long to apply as a hand wax. I have also used it many times on our 5er's Rubber roof. I hand wax the sides I use 3M spray wax on the sides 2-3 times a year has a UV protector and reduces the wax build up that you can get with paste waxes.

Getting the roof clean and a good coat of wax on it, will help with keeping the streaking down. Unlike doing the sides of the coach, you can sit down, use a buffer and pretty much let the weight of the buffer do the work.

I have a cupboard full of waxes that I've tried over the past 30 years including, Rejex, Meguiars, Turtle Wax, and a myriad of other off brand products. I always come back to NuFinish. I primarily use the liquid. I take the cap off, remove the paper gasket from the cap and drill a 1/8" hole in the cap. I screw the cap back on and use it like a squirt bottle. When I'm done, I replace the paper gasket to seal it. I also carry their semi paste wax too. I use that for touch up.

I clean my 3M shield before every trip with 303. I then wash the windshield and while I'm up there (every other trip) I apply a quick coat of wax to the front cap above the windshield. It takes the most beating. I'm like Scott, it's a pride thing.

I use to wax my entire coach 6 times a year. Bad knees and a bad back have slowed me to a full wax twice a year. So it's not for everyone and as you get older it gets tougher. Take your time and be careful on the roof. Crank up your TV antenna before climbing on the roof. It helps to clean and wax around it.

Now for the really anal twits like me....I also wax my generator. It looks nice, especially if you have a one on a slide out. I know there is at least one other anal twit that does it (Scott).:)

mbloom,
The short answer, yes. But, some things need to be taken care of prior to you waxing it. One, make sure it's good and clean which means a good washing with soap and water and maybe a good brush. Then, take a look at it closely. Is there any oxidation on it, any part of it, all of it? Waxing an oxidized surface is really a pain in the a$$.

But, waxing a prepped surface is seriously easier but, still a bit of work. Not many would go through what I've done to mine. Close to 5 years ago, we purchased an '04 Itasca Horizon 36GD with the C-7 330HP CAT. It's a full body paint model. Basically it's been garage/cover kept its whole life. But, the roof had never been maintenance, in any way, shape or form.

So, I got up there and washed it with soap, water and CLEANSER. That got it to a fresh surface. But, I had multiple spots of silicone sealer, tracked all over up there due to careless installers of the King dome satellite system. Well, I had to literally scrape, with a steel scraper, all of them.

Once that was done, out came the paint buffer. Not the cheesy, cheap Autozone type, this one is a Dewalt professional buffer. The same kind the pro painters use on rubbing out paint jobs. That tool and, about a quart of 3M rubbing compound, brought that roof to an ultra nice finish and an outstanding good look.

Once that was all done, out came the Kit car wax. You don't have to get fancy in this part. If a fiberglass roof is in good shape, any car wax will work just fine. As I stated earlier, not many will go through this kind of work on their roof. It's pride thing with me and, a preference. I don't mind the work. It's good for me to get out and get something like this done.

And, it will last for quite some time before re-waxing is necessary.
Scott

In the pictures below, you'll see the starting of the buffing, partially completed. Then, in the rest you see the finished product and, the reflections of the cover over the coach as seen in the shiny surface. Yes, bla, bla, bla, it's more slippery when it's that shiny and waxed but, we ALL KNOW THAT AND TAKE PRECAUTIONS when we're up on any roof.

Sure, but...I suggest you practice on mine first....:)

Anything can be waxed... not sure you need to use a paste wax but go ahead if you want to. Seems there are plenty of new technology products out there that can be sprayed/wiped on and wiped off that contain UV protection which is what is important. Once you "wax" be careful as it can be quite slippery.

Yes, just don't fall off ! :E:E:E:E

I wax mine at least once a year, sometimes twice. It gets washed when the coach does, which is often.....I use McGuires paste wax....Dennis