wolfe10 wrote:
Let's get back to the basic question-- do you have an auto bleed line from thermostat housing to reservoir or other higher point in the system? Nope I do not have an auto bleed line.
I now our old 3116 did not, but the coolant line to the air compressor came off the thermostat housing and was an easy place to crack open the connection and bleed until bubble free coolant came out. We opened the pressurized cap on the surge tank and ran it while parked. With cruise at about 1500 rpm's it takes about 15 minutes to come up to temp and open stat. Stat opened at about 190 and I let it run for about another 15 minutes and it stayed at 190. When we first serviced up with fresh coolant we did crack the stat housing and ran till bubble free coolant came out but I am guessing all the air wasn't out. New stat & coolant now runs at (barely detectable) about four degrees higher than old. 194 comes from silverleaf 190 is what both needle guages show. I am pleased it is not "loping" any longer.
Thanks Brett.
Once you have proved that there is no air bubble, and problem persists, I would pull the thermostats and check them in a pan of water on the stove with a candy thermometer. Make sure the thermostats are properly seated and installed right side up!
If those prove OK, suspect a gauge issue.
Brett there is no auto bleed line. When we serviced up with new coolant we did crack the stat housing until bubble free coolant came out. I also probably closed the cap too soon after filling. What I did today is remove the pressurized surge cap and brought up to temp. Stat opened at 190 and stayed there. I kept it running for another 15 minutes and it stayed so I'm happy. Technically it's at 194 but needle and digital gauge are both staying put and not loping.
