What extras should I insist on in a new Class C

Hi,

A two speed furnace.

A long list of mine that are essential (to me, that is), and are deal breakers if not present:

1: E-450 chassis, V-10 engine.
2: Rear view camera.
3: Auto-level jacks.
4: Azdel or aluminum sides.
5: Fiberglass or one piece metal roof, both crowned and folded around the top by a few inches.
6: The chassis having a remote for the door locks, and the keypad.
7: A 300 watt inverter, PSW. This would allow me to charge low-energy stuff like cellphones and tablets overnight.
8: A water heater bypass for winterizing.
9: Solar pre-wired.
10: A 5000 pound tow hitch.
11: Multi-stage converter, so I can keep the rig plugged in when at home.
12: An inbuilt generator that uses the fuel tank on the chassis.
13: An EMS, so low voltage won't burn out the A/C compressor, or plugging into 240 will give a display error code, and not a fried rig.
14: Fantastic Fan, 12 volt, with thermostat, ability to run forward/reverse, and rain sensor.
15: Tank heating pads and pipes wrapped with heating tape.

Not essential, but nice to have:

1: An electric awning.
2: Quigley 4x4 conversion.
3: Macerator pump with emergy outlet and gray water dump. I saw one used motorhome that actually had both a macerator pump and a regular gravity dump for emergencies. That way, you always have a way to empty the tanks out.
4: Full solar system, MPPT charger, with panels on top.
5: 300 amp-hours of battery life.
6: A full-time, "hybrid" PSW inverter. This way, no matter what the power is on the charging side, all appliances either get 120VAC or 0 VAC.
7: An audio head with Bluetooth hands free calling and playing music for when driving.
8: Full size spare tire.
9: Roof ladder.
10: Generator management system, so if the batteries get low, the genset fires up... assuming no quiet hours set.
11: A Cheap Heat system so if on hookups, no propane would be needed.
12: A water heater with both electric and propane.
13: A convection microwave/oven.
14: An accumulator tank so the water pump is quieter.
15: Mounts on the roof for RotoPax gasoline containers.

Pie in the sky wants:

1: A rear hitch that can tow more than 5000 pounds.
2: A 5500 watt generator, and 50 amp service (in reality, one leg for one A/C, the other for the second A/C and everything else.)
3: 1200 ampere-hours in the battery bank, so a residential fridge can be used when boondocking.
4: A hydronic system with a radiator in each storage compartment and near the tanks.
5: A Platinum Cat system, so I can minimize the use of the normal furnace when boondocking.
6: Fold-out solar panels on the sides.
7: A flexible solar panel on the awning as well.
8: A propane fuel cell like the Truma VeGA model. That would mean no worry about keeping batteries topped off, and would mean an efficient compressor refrigerator can be used while boondocking.
9: A clean-out, watertight hatch to all three tanks, 8-12 inches in diameter. This way, if there is a poop pyramid, it can be dealt with by a plastic scraper and a wet/dry vac, and clogs are easy to deal with.

PghBob wrote:
Given that you are located in Maryland, you might want to consider going to the RV show in Hershey, mid-September, self-promoted as the largest RV show in the country. There you can see first-hand various rigs of all sort and check the options as well.

A BIG RV show is the best place to get ideas from what rig to get, to what to get inside it. Some great deals on new rigs are offered at those shows too. You only need to be ready to make a decision if finding that perfect rig & options. Keep in-mind that RV manufactures are approaching their slow period starting in September, lasting through December. Generally speaking, your best prices are found in the last 1/3 of the year. And don't rule out special ordering what you want. Don't assume great deals are only on ready-made units when working factory-direct. I feel it is better to spend a tiny bit more to get exactly what you want, rather than to compromise to save that tiny bit. This assuming the right model, just not the right features for you. For example, if you want a particular slide out option, don't settle for something else.

PghBob wrote:
Given that you are located in Maryland, you might want to consider going to the RV show in Hershey, mid-September, self-promoted as the largest RV show in the country. There you can see first-hand various rigs of all sort and check the options as well.

If you are new to RVing, consider how you will use your RV. For example, are you more interested in traveling around, or more interested in taking the RV to "the lake or beach" for several days or weeks at a time. Also, if new to RVing, you need to factor in the Occupant and Cargo Carrying Capacity (OCCC) of the unit. This is to insure that you are not driving overloaded. Depending of the RV of choice, you may not be able to add all of the suggested options above, without an overload. We saw some units at the Hershey show that would have been overloaded just with the four adults in our family getting onboard. *In general*, the longer the RV and options like slideouts, leveling systems, and towing all decrease the amount of weight you can safely carry. Best wishes for a successful search.

This is the best advice you got. See what you can add to ccc weight then consider adding toys and items to coach. We have BT Cruiser 28 ft 1 small slide in living area Unit is perfect for 2. The unit dry with full gas tank is 10,888lbs. That's 3162 lbs. left for us to add two people , food and stuff. We roughly add 1000 to 1500 over that only have maybe 5 gal fresh water when we are on the road pull a 3200 lbs. SUV and can keep the pressure on tires down for a better ride based on weight of load on tires from Tire manufactures chart. Most have TIRES maxed out to 80lbs and ride like a cement truck because they don't know weight of load on axles ( not everyone but most). Plus at 55MPH we averaged ON 3000 MILE SUMMER TRIP 11 mpg with V10. Follow this mans advice, He is steering you at what to look at 1st, then you can add all the toys later when you know the available weight to add on to coach.

Never ever buy a Class C with that "useless front window" above the cab. A leak waiting to happen..speaking from experience. Since we don't sleep up there & the other 2 window are covered with reflectix..NO windows in over the cab area. Except for our Fantastic fan-<3 in the ceiling.

rockhillmanor wrote:


3.MaxxAir Turbo Fan > no vent cover required it's a complete unit, fan is outside the RV so you can't hear it. THE best thing I installed.

x2
bumpy

Oooooh .... I left one IMPORTANT item off my long earlier list: Do not buy a Class C with an overhead bed forward facing window!!!!

Yes, it can be a source of leaks over the years - but way worse - try getting home from across the U.S. after getting it shattered by a stone from an oncoming truck and then breaking into a million pieces all over the interior while driving down the road. The glass in them is tempered glass (for "strength") .... but is also non-safety glass so they do not stay together when cracked by a rock. And ... not just "anybody" can put a new one in right so it doesn't leak from then on. It took three(3) tries by professionals to get a new cabover window put in correctly in our Class C.

Everybody forgot long solid metal valve stems for all six tires that permit easy air pressure checks and topping off air in tires. May have to buy online and have installed by a truck tire shop.Not cheap but worth it. BTW, RV tires are not rotated like passenger tires.

Do not buy cheap screw-on "extenders", they may leak and cause tire failure

http://www.ridgecrest.ca.us/~tire-man/

http://www.borgtiresupply.com/owner/duallyvalve.pdf

Of all the stuff you folks have listed..the one that really gets me thinking is a two-speed propane furnace. Now I have to go shopping!


Gary Haupt

120 volt outlets in all compartments. Have one of the two outlets switched from inside the RV.