What fluids to service in used RV?

Great write up border collie. My 09 Cambria sat for about 3 weeks and I found the chassis batteries dead and unable to start the coach. Now I plug the house to ground power then plug a smart charger into the wall and then into a 12 volt accessory port on the dash.

With your multimeter set on 20 volts DC, touch the red probe to the positive terminal of the house battery ( positive terminal should have a red cable).Touch black probe to the negative terminal of house battery (has a black cable. If you have two 6-volt batteries in series find positive terminal on left battery and negative terminal on right battery. You should see 12.6 dc volts when rig is not connected to 120volt AC shore power, 13.6 volts dc when rig is connected to shore power, and around 14 volts dc when engine is running or when RV generator is running . Add distilled water to battery cells to just cover the plates using a rubber bulb battery filler from the auto supply store. Loosen and disconnect terminal clamps with a terminal cleaner from the auto supply store to assure good electrical connection and charging. If any of the readings are low, you may have something wrong with the converter charger, battery(s) or corroded connections. The converter charger is a box that gets 110 volt AC power when connected to shore power (or when RV generator is running) and converts it to 12 volt dc power to charge the house battery(s) and operate your interior lights, appliance controls, furnace blower, fresh water pump and alarms.

Fully charged house batteries last from 1-3 nights before becoming discharged. Running furnace blower can run down a marginal house battery in one night's use.
It's good to understand, check and maintain the 12 volt power system so it doesn't fail you when needed. Set your auxiliary battery switch to "off" when rig is parked un-driven for weeks to keep house battery(s) from becoming discharged by "parasitic" loads ( alarms, appliance controls, etc.)

Note, your RV engine's starting battery probably does not get charged when rig is connected to shore power unless it has a special device installed to do so. The starting battery may become discharged and not start the engine after 3 weeks being parked un-driven depending on the age/condition of battery.

ppine wrote:
You are on the right track. I would leave the brake fluid and change everything else.

The owners/service manual specifically says to change the brake fluid every two years. Question: What do the engineers at Ford know about their vehicles that you don't?

Ever price an ABS unit? Yeah yeah I know, . . . "I've never change the brake fluid and I've never had a problem." Until you do! Skidding sideways at 60 mph on a wet/icy road is NOT the time to find out you have brake issues.

Chum lee

Everything you can think of. The obscure ones may have never been changed.

Check the house box converter charger and house battery(s)including cleaning of all battery connectors, electrolyte levels and DC voltage. With rig on shore power, voltage should be around 13.6 volts, with engine or generator running around 14 volts, disconnected from shore power for some time etc., voltage should be around 12.6 volts. It is good to have battery load tested if it is not fairly new, for reliable power. Older converter chargers can overcharge batteries and boil off electrolyte. Might want to consider updating converter charger if old type. Check fridge for proper cooling in electric, propane and auto modes. Run generator, let it warm up and run roof AC with microwave same time to test proper operation. Set up awning, inspect, and stow it carefully. Might want to install awning lock device to prevent accidental unfurling while underway. Make sure tires are not older than 5 years old by date codes and with no sidewall cracking. If you hear any steady thumping while driving, check tires for lumps where tread is separating. Watch for any pulling of front brakes, change front brake flex lines if not newish when having brake fluid flushed and replaced and brake system serviced as needed.
Tires and brakes are very important in RV's for safe driving.

I do have a multimeter, where do I check the voltage?

Check the house box converter charger and house battery(s)including cleaning of all battery connectors, electrolyte levels and DC voltage. With rig on shore power, voltage should be around 13.6 volts, with engine or generator running around 14 volts, disconnected from shore power for some time etc., voltage should be around 12.6 volts. It is good to have battery load tested if it is not fairly new, for reliable power. Older converter chargers can overcharge batteries and boil off electrolyte. Might want to consider updating converter charger. Check fridge for proper cooling in electric, propane and auto modes.

klutchdust wrote:

BigCanoe wrote:
Oh ya, forgot power steering fluid.

Explain why the power steering fluid needs to be changed. Also I have had vehicles, both with over 250K on them that never had the brake fluid changed. They pulled trailers from time to time. Coolant goes to 100K now so why bother? I am a maintenance guy but some of this sounds unnecessary.

Its just what "Google" suggested I do, to be honest. I will probably check with the dealership I purchased from and a friend of a friend who owns a truck maintenance company as well before sinking in any more cash than what is obvious that needs doing.

When I can, I'll try to find the 2008 Owner's Manual. In the meanwhile, remember that the Owner Manual doesn't "Morph" into the latest recommendations. Simple example is that engine oil with a service index printed in your model year might not even be for sale any longer. The example I'm thinking of is Rear Axle Lube. Our manual says Dino Oil for the rear but the current thinking is Full Synthetic. And, Dino had a service interval, while Full Syn is "permanent" unless the axle gets submerged in water. WalMart has SuperTech Full Syn for about $11 a bottle, a very good price for that. Just be sure it's not the Dino or Blend they also sell.
Brake Fluid is a Must Change, with the premium DOT3 (I think it's stil 3, not 4 which is different).
Power Steering Fluid...? Two points:
1. It's starting to come into view because a company called "BG" has come up with ways to Flush Everything Automotive. They sell mechanics and the mechanics sell us. That said, We run vehicles longer than we used to, and the fluid DOES get contaminated. Especially on Rack and Pinion systems. Aluminum parts instead of Steel. I replaced the Rack in a Buick with 120,000 and later the Pump. The Pump was FULL of Grit and Grime, not good lubrication for itself or the Rack. The Rack wasn't leaking but it'd jam in a turn and not want to return to Center.
2. E450's (and others) use HydroBoost braking. Instead of Vacuum, HB uses hydraulic pressure from the Power Steering Pump as its power source. This produces Several Times more brake apply pressure than vacuum brakes. This means there is a Steering Fluid-to-Brake Fluid intersection in the HB unit. We need to do everything we can to keep sour brake fluid OR sour steering fluid from damaging the seals!!! If those fluids get to mixing, it's an unholy mess.

BigCanoe wrote:
Oh ya, forgot power steering fluid.

Explain why the power steering fluid needs to be changed. Also I have had vehicles, both with over 250K on them that never had the brake fluid changed. They pulled trailers from time to time. Coolant goes to 100K now so why bother? I am a maintenance guy but some of this sounds unnecessary.