why alcoa wheels?

Pangaea Ron wrote:

FIRE UP wrote:


But, if you don't mind doing a bit of touch up every now and then, then you can get them with different finishes and, they're not clear coated so, over time, they will oxidize and get duller. But, if you do what I do, about every 3-4 months, sit down with some music on and, some polish, about an hour and a half later, you're back to a high luster.

So what polish do you like? I'm about to tackle my un-coated Alcoa wheels. I can figure out the music.

Pangaea Ron,
Well Sir, first, it depends on what kind of condition the wheels are in when you start the project. You see, there are polishes, compounds, pastes, liquids and more. If a wheel has been neglected for quite some time and, has been subjected to things like, close to the ocean, salt air and other bad juju, then some of the stronger types of pastes might be in order. Or, if it's real bad, then a removal of the wheel might be in order so a drill with a rotating, 1/2"-3/4" thick, 3" in diameter, cotton, tightly sewn wheel might be the game of the day with, the use of a medium based compound bar. Then, you simply progress to a finer compound bar.

But, if your wheels are not too bad, then, there's a multitude of readily available pastes, polishes and liquids out there. I've used "Semi-Chrome" since I was a pup, and folks, that was a while ago. But, I've got it, Zephyr 40 which, was and maybe only sold by Costco online. I've got Mothers too. I've used pastes from detailing supplies services too. So, again, it all really depends on the starting condition.

Use a small, microfiber patch of material, wrapped around your finger, and do a small section at a time. Then, wipe it off to a good luster. Then move on. Yep, it will definitely take some time. But, you're not in a hurry are you. Do a half a wheel in a day. That way your fingers get a break and you don't get too bored and tired of the job.

Here's the way ours look presently.
Scott

Flitz polish does a nice job on my aluminum wheels.

Same method as Fired Up for the application.

Also Flitz is great for removing oxidation on all plastic lenses (brake lights, backup, running etc).

FIRE UP wrote:
stan909,
Well Sir, a few things here. First, based on at least quite a few years experience with fire trucks, Alloy wheels, mainly Alcoa's, are a tad stronger than the same wheel dimension of a steel counter part. They come in multiple finishes. If you're one of the types that likes the shiny way they look but, have no desire to "keep up that shine", then, they come with a clear coat that will keep them from oxidizing for the most part.

But, if you don't mind doing a bit of touch up every now and then, then you can get them with different finishes and, they're not clear coated so, over time, they will oxidize and get duller. But, if you do what I do, about every 3-4 months, sit down with some music on and, some polish, about an hour and a half later, you're back to a high luster.

Now, as far as weight is concerned, they are lighter but, not by very much. I pulled my rear duals off for some maintenance a while back and as usual, I have an outer alloy wheel and, a steel inner. Well, just for the heck of it, I thought I'd weigh each and see what the difference might be. My tires are Michelins and are the 255x80R22.5 versions. So, the alloy wheel/tire combo weighed in at , 144.2 lbs. and the steel tire/wheel combo weighed in at 167.4.

A whopping 23 lbs. difference, wow, big deal. Now, I'd bet my house that if you blindfolded someone, put them on a coach that had steel wheels all the way around and took them for a ride on whatever kind of test road you wanted, then came back, and put alloys on just the outside (as all coaches are equipped) and then took them for the same test drive on the same road, they'd never be able to tell the difference. That's a whopping 46 lbs. of unsprung weight. Doubt seriously it makes any real difference.

Anyway, it's a lot nicer looking wheel, in my opinion, if they're kept up in appearance. Just an opinion.
Scott

23X 4= 92. Also the hub caps on the steel wheels need to be factored in.

I think weight is a factor for manufacturers to consider when putting a mh together. I have aluminum wheels installed when ordering a garbage truck because of the weight savings. I always calculate that an aluminum wheel is almost 25lbs lighter than steel so I can save 50lbs on the front axle, 50lbs on the tag and 100lbs on the drive axle so that is 200lbs more garbage I can haul which adds up over the years.

Aluminum wheels on a motorhome give you just that much more you can pack into the pantry.

Plus they look *****in.

Why Alcoa? Because the shine is like no other. Your MH. can be dirty but if your wheels are hand polished no one will notice. The un coated ones shine much better than the coated ones.

Got to go polish mine right now.

Pogoil.

mine are 5 1/2 years old and they still look like the day I got it, and all I do is wash them

Zephyr Pro 40 for polishing the Alcoas. Great stuff but hard to find check truck stops.

Three things to add to this post.

In general the aluminum wheels tend to me more true to round and easier to balance.

More importantly, it is not the absolute weight that is the key factor. Rotating weight is to the fourth power header to accelerate or decelerate than static weight. So the lighter the wheel the easier to accelerate or brake.

And lastly the wheel is unsprung weight, lower unsprung weight equals smoother ride and compliance to bumps.

Just a small correction to your statement, "as all coaches are equipped". All rim's on Foretravel's are Alcoa's as are a few of the other high end brands.

No poster mentioned this but any coach with aluminum wheels adds $2,000.00 to the price of your coach when it comes time to trade or sell it!