winter storage for RV

I put a switch in the power line to the fuel pump that feeds the generator. When I know that I'm not going to use the generator for a while, with the generator running I turn the fuel pump off and let it run out of gas. Did that for many years, never a problem.

I have my Class C connected to power when being stored all winter. I do not start the engine or move the RV until spring, and the skiing is over. Where it's stored, it is blocked in by snow most of the winter, most winters.

I have a Battery Minder on the house battery and a trickle charger on the chassis battery. I don't use the converter during storage. I start the generator every couple of months during a warm spell.

Of course I winterize the RV in the fall before it freezes and de-winterize in the spring.

We store (Class C) indoors with no trouble. I don't touch my RV for 4-5 months. Previous post has good info, I have a bypass on my water heater and use RV antifreeze instead of blowout method. I remove ALL foodstuffs and clean everything prior to putting in storage.

I don't use my motorhome during the winter, mainly because I don't want to get road salt on the exposed framework underneath. A short drive (during which it doesn't get fully up to temperature) is much harder on the engine than sitting for the winter.

My winterizing procedures are fairly simple. I winterize the plumbing system by blowing out the lines with compressed air and pouring a cupful of RV antifreeze into each of the drain traps. I put in an appropriate amount of Sta-bil and fill up the gas tank (if the tank is full of fuel, with no room for air, there can't be any water that condenses out of the air to cause trouble) and park it outside for the winter. It's better to change the oil before storage rather than afterwards if it's time to do so.

Batteries in cold conditions won't self-discharge much, so one effective way to deal with them is to make sure they're fully charged and just disconnect them. Alternately, if there's shore power available, you can use some sort of a charger to keep them up to snuff, such as the RV's converter (preferably a multistage one that won't overcharge the battery continuously). Most often the converter will not charge the chassis battery, so disconnecting it or finding some other way to keep it charged is needed.

The generator should be run every month or so for a decent length of time under load to keep the gas in the carb fresh, the brushes and slip rings clean, and the coils dry. A portable electric space heater works nicely as a load in the wintertime.

Having a vent cover or two is a good idea, as it allows a vent to be left cracked open and any moisture to dissipate. There's generally no need to do anything at all for the television or other appliances over the winter.

The answer to this question will depend on what part of the country you might be from and will you be able to put it into indoor storage, cover with a tarp, or will it sit out in the open.

Our 2002 Trail-Lite does not have any parasitic electric draw so it will sit from the end of October to the middle of May and the engine battery has not discharged. For that reason, I see no need to exercise the engine and drive train. We are lucky enough to have indoor unheated storage.

The generator is a slightly different case. I worry that the little bit of gasoline in the carburetor will evaporate and leave a residue inside that will plug the jets. So,....I try to visit the RV every 4 to 6 weeks and start the generator and let it run for about an hour while I pop some popcorn and possibly the A/C while watching TV.

It might help if you would share what storage you anticipate, what part of the country, and do you have parasitic draw on the chassis battery.

We just bought a used one and have similar questions. I intend to travel with it at least a weekend monthly during the winter, though winterised.

I was also told to run the generator for thirty minutes monthly, regardless of season so the gas keeps flowing.