Any tips about pulling a new cable for rear view camera ?

I asked locally about wireless and got mixed replies. I did reply on 11/28 and said that the cable was damaged.

Job done yesterday. New unit and new cable installed. $510 for equipment and $180 for handyman to do the work.

garyhaupt wrote:
Why would a person not just go for a wireless?

Gary Haupt

I suggested that already but got NO response.
Let's see if you do any better.

I also suggested first trying to re-use the old cable.
No response to that either.

akaPedro wrote:
New cable will be zip tied to top of loom(s) running underneath, fore to aft. It will provide some protection. There are/were only two connections: behind monitor and behind camera. It is a 75' cable for a 35' MH.

The actual connectors attached to the wires is often where problems arise. Holes or channels the wire snakes through may not be big enough to allow the connectors to pass through. Now if the camera is near the bottom (license plate camera), that's not so hard, but if it's mounted up high, those connectors could be a deal killer.

I always use blank cable for the running and attach connectors after they have been snaked to their location. This enables me pull the wire through the same original or small drilled holes.

Why would a person not just go for a wireless?

Gary Haupt

New cable will be zip tied to top of loom(s) running underneath, fore to aft. It will provide some protection. There are/were only two connections: behind monitor and behind camera. It is a 75' cable for a 35' MH.

Normally, undercarriage cable running isn't that big a deal. Same goes for most undercarriage through firewall to dash. The biggest problems comes in when running cable from undercarriage to the rear, especially when the cable snakes up through the RV's body. If you have a chase or places to conceal the wires, that's great, but, if it's finished with no place to hide wires, it can be a problem. What complicates that part is not so much the wires, but the connectors. Those connectors can make fishing wires very difficult.

So if you can explain more about the wire runs locations and conditions, that can help with advise. I have run new wires and I have replaced wires. I found replacing so much easier.

Forgot to mention I was going to replace the cable anyway, as swapping new camera and monitor did not work. Had to be the cable....right? I had previously gone under and checked the cable for worn/dinged spots. None found.....until just the other day when I did find a worn spot where it was rubbing on the horn mount and looked damaged.....

I just replaced my rear view monitor and camera. I just used the old cable. Easy. The old cable was better made and higher quality than what came with the new camera.

I've had to do this also on my 37' DP. I was able to run the cables down the inner cavity to the engine and then from there it was just a matter of weaving and zip tying, keeping it out of the way of moving parts and road debris using additional insulation where necessary.

This was years ago but I'm in the market again to upgrade and I think I may go with a "better" wireless system for the rear and I want side view wired camera's....recently had my windows tinted and looking at the side view mirrors has become tougher due to reflection.

Good Luck...

p220sigman wrote:
Unless there was a problem with the original routing, why reinvent the wheel? .

Many of us tend to overlook the obvious occasionally.....and this time I did too.

It is pretty unlikely that the video cable is what failed, and it is pretty LIKELY that it could be used again just like it is.

I think you should try that first.