Forum Discussion
pianotuna
Mar 22, 2014Nomad III
Hi,
Load balancing is a fact of life with a 30 amp service in an RV.
However, consider "breaking out" the high draw appliances such as the water heater.
I have mine on a system of plugs, so I can quickly change from the OEM 30 amp to an auxiliary shore power cord that supplies the water heater and an extra plug. I did the same with the converter so I can run it separately as well.
When I do those things then I have no need for load balancing--and in the winter I have access to the 30 amp oem, a 20 amp auxiliary, and a 15 amp auxiliary for running electric heaters. That, along with some other simple modifications has allowed me to heat 100% electrically down to a temperature of -37 C (-34 f).
I also have a dedicated inverter powered outlet that I often use when there is access to only a single 15 amp circuit.
I love the flexibility I have with the system.
I understand there are now a few "high end" rv's that are using a 100 amp service.
Load balancing is a fact of life with a 30 amp service in an RV.
However, consider "breaking out" the high draw appliances such as the water heater.
I have mine on a system of plugs, so I can quickly change from the OEM 30 amp to an auxiliary shore power cord that supplies the water heater and an extra plug. I did the same with the converter so I can run it separately as well.
When I do those things then I have no need for load balancing--and in the winter I have access to the 30 amp oem, a 20 amp auxiliary, and a 15 amp auxiliary for running electric heaters. That, along with some other simple modifications has allowed me to heat 100% electrically down to a temperature of -37 C (-34 f).
I also have a dedicated inverter powered outlet that I often use when there is access to only a single 15 amp circuit.
I love the flexibility I have with the system.
I understand there are now a few "high end" rv's that are using a 100 amp service.
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