Forum Discussion
mlts22
Mar 27, 2014Explorer
I always use a two or four valve splitter when attaching to water. That way, if filling a tank up, someone else can attach their hose or fill up their stuff without detaching mine, or getting annoyed at waiting. I do have a couple water thief units, but have yet to actually bother using them. Plus, some of the newer faucets that I've seen that are designed to keep hoses from being attached tend to have a spigot that is rectangular or square in shape, making a water thief impossible to attach.
I like the SPOT messenger. That plus insurance, so if GEOS gets notified, someone else pays the rescue fees; not me. Those heli flights can get expensive (they charge by the foot), so having insurance will prevent a major financial dent in the wallet later on.
Dogbone cables are important as well. I carry a 50A to 30A, 20A to 30A, 30A round to 30A, and an extension cord or two. You will find a CG has spotty 30A power... which is solved by plugging into the 50A receptacle and using an adapter.
A multimeter goes without saying. Without it, you are just guessing on battery power.
Sewer hoses, I personally have had good luck with the Valterra Dominator, but Rhino hoses are good quality as well. I like a 90 degree fitting on the end so I can screw the hose into a drain pipe (as with most RV sites), or weight it with a rock and have it dump in. Just sticking end of the poop hose into the drain is asking for spills and backsplashes. I keep the hose in a plastic tub, rather than in the bumper.
One thing I find useful (YMMV, of course) are clear plastic tubs with lids that latch on. My hitch stinger, friction bars, clips and friction bar tool go into one, my macerator pump goes in another, sewage hose in a third, fresh water hoses in a fourth, room temperature water bottles in a fifth, etc.
I also use ZipLoc bags for all bottles, and place all bottles in plastic tubs. That way, if a shampoo bottle leaks, the mess is limited.
I have a lockbox hidden away on the vehicle, but accessible from the outside. If someone searches the underside of my vehicle... then manages to break the lockbox, that probably is more work than just prying the door open with a screwdriver.
I like the SPOT messenger. That plus insurance, so if GEOS gets notified, someone else pays the rescue fees; not me. Those heli flights can get expensive (they charge by the foot), so having insurance will prevent a major financial dent in the wallet later on.
Dogbone cables are important as well. I carry a 50A to 30A, 20A to 30A, 30A round to 30A, and an extension cord or two. You will find a CG has spotty 30A power... which is solved by plugging into the 50A receptacle and using an adapter.
A multimeter goes without saying. Without it, you are just guessing on battery power.
Sewer hoses, I personally have had good luck with the Valterra Dominator, but Rhino hoses are good quality as well. I like a 90 degree fitting on the end so I can screw the hose into a drain pipe (as with most RV sites), or weight it with a rock and have it dump in. Just sticking end of the poop hose into the drain is asking for spills and backsplashes. I keep the hose in a plastic tub, rather than in the bumper.
One thing I find useful (YMMV, of course) are clear plastic tubs with lids that latch on. My hitch stinger, friction bars, clips and friction bar tool go into one, my macerator pump goes in another, sewage hose in a third, fresh water hoses in a fourth, room temperature water bottles in a fifth, etc.
I also use ZipLoc bags for all bottles, and place all bottles in plastic tubs. That way, if a shampoo bottle leaks, the mess is limited.
I have a lockbox hidden away on the vehicle, but accessible from the outside. If someone searches the underside of my vehicle... then manages to break the lockbox, that probably is more work than just prying the door open with a screwdriver.
About RV Newbies
4,026 PostsLatest Activity: Jun 15, 2017