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docnascar's avatar
docnascar
Explorer
May 10, 2013

Ball section on WDH slipped.

Things we learn the hard way. I accidentally hit a very large dip in a parking lot a little too fast that was way deeper than I thought. The pressure was too much for my hitch and forced it to move. Talking to some folks later I was told on new hitch assemblies (got mine last summer) you should re-tighten these things every once in a while as new metal can stretch and make the connection loose.

I did not have the bars on at the time. It was just a very short trip to test my new brake controller. Ironic huh? I should have slowed down before hitting that dip! Duh! I wonder if the bars were on there would it have done this or would it have bent the bars?

Luckily nothing was damaged.

Warning for the new rigs out there. Re-torque your stuff.


10 Replies

  • Bart_Y's avatar
    Bart_Y
    Explorer
    May 12, 2013
    There is a bolt at the bottom of my Equalizer specifically to keep the hitch head tight against the shank when tightening the through bolts. I break out the 3/4" drive tools to tighten those nuts, the manual on my hitch specifies 350-400 ft/lbs torque on those bolts, which is even pushing it for a 1/2" impact.
  • dodge_guy's avatar
    dodge_guy
    Explorer II
    May 11, 2013
    My original hitch had what the OP had I think. there were washers you added to get the tilt needed, (you needed to partially disassemble the hitch head to adjust the tilt). I too had the toothed washers as the OP. right now I have the Reese with the serrated blocks (1st pic above), this will never slip, unless they loosen up! ALOT!
  • opnspaces's avatar
    opnspaces
    Navigator III
    May 10, 2013
    Wow, that is one heck of a slip on the hitch. I wouldn't attribute it to a new hitch though. We ALL should check the bolts from time to time as it could happen to any hitch.

    It would be nice if yours had an offset six sided washer like the hitch pictured above. Does your hitch possibly have an adjustment bolt at the bottom between the stinger and the hitch head?

    It just seems wrong to be trusting the head angle to just pressure from the side bolts with absolutely nothing to help prevent that kind of slippage.

    On a positive note, at least it will be really easy reset the bolts back to their original positions.
  • ChooChooMan74's avatar
    ChooChooMan74
    Explorer
    May 10, 2013
    Here is a Reese Trunion with the serrated block.



    Here is a Reese round bar with the 6 sided washer...

  • mbopp's avatar
    mbopp
    Explorer
    May 10, 2013
    If that's a Reese DC then it should have a 6-sided washer on each side and not rely just on the tightness of the bolt to prevent slipping.
  • ChooChooMan74's avatar
    ChooChooMan74
    Explorer
    May 10, 2013
    Something is not right. There should be no way that would move, unless it is an inferior product. There should be square tooth washers with vertical teeth, that lock into teeth on the head, or, mine has a 6 sided washer, off centered hole, and sits between 2 flat pieces so that it will hold and still have adjustment.

    Just say not, you have it adjusted for the most, if not too much, weight transfer.
  • docnascar's avatar
    docnascar
    Explorer
    May 10, 2013
    dodge guy wrote:
    How/why did it move? It shouldn't! There should be serrated washers on the sides or a bolt or washers behind the hitch head.


    It came loose I guess. :E The serrated washers are there, you can see how it scratched the paint.
  • dodge_guy's avatar
    dodge_guy
    Explorer II
    May 10, 2013
    How/why did it move? It shouldn't! There should be serrated washers on the sides or a bolt or washers behind the hitch head.

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