easy way to winterize?

I've been blowing out the lines using compressed air for close to 20 years, the only time I had a problem was 2 years ago when I had to return the new 5ver for warranty work AFTER I had winterized, the shop needed to un-winterize then re-winterized, they used RV antifreeze in the lines, not only was it a real pain to get rid of the taste next spring but my pump hasn't worked properly since, I know what works for me.:)

CloudDriver wrote:

Bumpyroad wrote:

Harvey51 wrote:
What prevents water from lying in the lower half of a pipe while the air goes by in the top half? .

nothing
bumpy

High velocity air flow is what is needed to clear water from the horizontal (and vertical) sections of piping. A low velocity/low flow rate of air will clear some of the water, then just flow on by in the top half of the pipe. A high velocity/high flow rate will move more water along due to friction with the water surface and will break the water into droplets that can be carried vertically up to a sink faucet, etc. Obtaining the highest possible air flow through a piping section is the reason for blowing only one faucet at a time.

Successfully blowing out a piping system requires an air compressor capable of providing the necessary high volume of air continuously for a long enough time to get all the water out. Folks who report success in blowing lines must be owners of an adequate air compressor.

would you care to explain exactly what the requirements for this would be?
bumpy

Bumpyroad wrote:

Harvey51 wrote:
What prevents water from lying in the lower half of a pipe while the air goes by in the top half? .

nothing
bumpy

High velocity air flow is what is needed to clear water from the horizontal (and vertical) sections of piping. A low velocity/low flow rate of air will clear some of the water, then just flow on by in the top half of the pipe. A high velocity/high flow rate will move more water along due to friction with the water surface and will break the water into droplets that can be carried vertically up to a sink faucet, etc. Obtaining the highest possible air flow through a piping section is the reason for blowing only one faucet at a time.

Successfully blowing out a piping system requires an air compressor capable of providing the necessary high volume of air continuously for a long enough time to get all the water out. Folks who report success in blowing lines must be owners of an adequate air compressor.

I have always blown out my lines. 8 years of no problems. Recently tho, when dewinterizing, until my toilet is good and primed (run a lot of water thru) it leaks. I suspect this is due to the valve system somehow losing it's water seal/prime.

Anybody else experience this?


On edit: Pink stuff into the traps. ...so I do have a jug on hand.

Bumpyroad wrote:

Harvey51 wrote:
What prevents water from lying in the lower half of a pipe while the air goes by in the top half? .

nothing
bumpy

x2. Pink stuff is the best few bucks and little extra effort for peace of mind. Some don't use it, just blow it out and it works for them. I don't want to have to wonder when the temps fall below 0 whether I got all the water out by blowing them out. Running pink stuff is good insurance and costs next to nothing. And if you are really frugal, when you de-winterize you can capture most of it from a faucet into the original container when you turn the pump back on.

Harvey51 wrote:
What prevents water from lying in the lower half of a pipe while the air goes by in the top half? .

nothing
bumpy

Another option is to move West not South.

We drain the water lines, but refill the water tank (earthquake country, emergency shelter). Pink stuff in the drains.

Heater set on low when it will be below freezing for a couple days with the cupboard doors open.

All our waterlines are above the floor.

No problem in 7 winters.

I don't know how to blow the water out. Do you blow into each sink, toilet to push the water out the low point drain? Or into the city water inlet to blow it out the sinks? What prevents water from lying in the lower half of a pipe while the air goes by in the top half?

If RV plumbing has a true low point drain, we should be able to open it and all the taps on the way home and have all the water fall out as we drive.

Thomas/NH wrote:
I give up... If you don't want to take it from someone who does it for a living, then so be it! Over think this simple task and do it your way... You win!

Don't get insulted. Different strokes for different folks. That is why there are different ways. We should try to give the OP all of the information, good and bad, for all of the methods, and let him choose his own poison.

You pointed out one drawback to the pink stuff, bad taste. I pointed out one drawback to blowing out the lines, not getting all of the water out. It has happened. People have posted about it here.

Of course, I sanitize the system after the pink stuff, then flush thoroughly. I have never had a bad taste from the pink stuff, just as you have never had remaining water in your lines freeze and cause damage.

My pump has quick connect fittings, so I made up a quick connect with short tube to go from the antifreeze jug to the intake side f the pump.
Drain water heater, bypass, open all faucets, drain low point drains, close everything and allow the pump to pressurize system with antifreeze, run faucets, toilet, showers, etc.. Making sure pink flows and fills traps.
I have no doubt the air pressure method works, I am just not brave enough. I would probably use this method if I needed to use my trailer in the winter season more than once or twice. As it is we usually only head out for thanksgiving.