Since you are new, I'll explain 'bypass' that the posters are telling you about on the water heater. When it is time to winterize, people like to run an RV antifreeze through the plumbing to protect it from plain water left in the lines after attempting to blow them dry with compressed air. Without a 'bypass' valve setup, you would need 6-10 gallons of antifreeze to fill the water heater before the antifreeze continued through the lines on the hot water side of the plumbing. Bypass valves allow you to drain and isolate the water heater so when the antifreeze is pumped through the lines it 'bypasses' the water heater and can protect the hot water side of the plumbing. If the valves are still in the bypass position, the heater may be working but it has no water in it because of the bypass valves (and you get cold water at the hot water faucets). In this case, your heater element may now be burned out (or someone before you did that and neglected to replace it thinking they will just use propane). It's not an expensive part to replace but usually requires access to the rear of the heater (or pulling it out to get to it). You will learn a LOT in the next few months. Don't hesitate to jump on here and ask questions! Something else that will even trip up us long time Rvers is that if you have an 'external shower' in the utility bay, and the hot and cold water valves are on and the showerhead shutoff is closed, cold water can sneak it's way into the hot water side of the system and make the hot water not so hot. We were all there before and someone here will certainly have an answer to any question you will come up with! Happy RVing!