leveling trailer

A couple of things: Use a couple 4x6 blocks under each stabilizer jack. The further down the jacks go, there seems to be more wiggle. 2) chocking the wheels by using some of the products suggested or make your own. Re-adjust as needed. Just by the very nature of the way TT are built, you are still going to get some but that should help

With our TT we would put the TT exactly where wanted. I would then put the level on the floor inside the door and see if its level. With experience and by looking at the level, you will learn how much lift on the side you will need. We would place boards or leveling blocks beside the tires that need to be raised. I would pull the TT far enough forward or backwards and move the boards/blocks in place where the tires were. Then move he TT back up on them boards/blocks. Recheck for level. Once level, we would put plastic chock in front of and behind the tires. Unhook the TV and level front to rear with the electric tongue jack and using e level on the floor again. We then would place x chocks between the wheels and lower the stabilizers with 6x6 wood underneath each one to not extend the stabilizers to far out. After a while, usually before bed or the next morning, I would have to tighten down stabilizers again.

We use the jack stands used under Mobile Homes. I have a set of four, they are adjustable. I level side to side using blocks under the tires. Put on the RotoChoks. Unhitch, lower the front of the TT and place the two rear jackstands under the frame. Raise the front of the TT to a little past level and place the two front jackstands under the frame. Lower the trailer onto the jackstands and we are solid.

The jack stands are strong enough to support the entire weight of our TT. I got them at an independent RV supply shop.

Wedges are only effective is used correctly. Just dropping some by a wheel and nudging them with your toe does nothing to help. To properly set a wedge you place it in front of a tire, pull forward ONTO the wedge, then set the secont wedge behind the tire. Now let the trailer find it's own center. When used that way they are FAIRLY effective but chances are most of your problems are not associated with chocking the wheels.

Trailers generally have light weight frames and these frames flex, especially with longer trailers. When you put stab jacks down at the corners it actually makes the problem worse as when the corners are lifted the center, around the axles sags even more. When you walk around inside the frame flexes and bounces on the trailers own suspension. Adding a third set of stab jacks, mounted to the FRAME (not the suspension) can remove most of the wiggle caused by suspension bounce. Also you might experiment with putting different amounts of lift on the corner stab jacks until you find the "sweet spot" for your trailer.

Good luck / Skip

Buy a pair of RotoChoks. They aren't cheap but are well worth the cost.

There's been a lot of post on this forum about this.

Check them out, sure that will help: http://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/search/parms/sw%7Bbal%20%20chocks%7D|km%7Bexact%7D|kl%7Bm%7D|fm%7B%7D|pd%7B365%7D|ma%7B%7D/sr/1.cfm

We currently have a 25ft TT w/slide. When we get backed in to our spot, I put the chocks under trailer wheels. Plug in, extend slide. Raise jack with wood blocks underneath, and get the weight off the hitch. Then, we use 2 pieces of 2X6 wood blocks under the scissor jacks-level it up. Pull TV out. We're pretty stabile with this system.