Forum Discussion

cchorney's avatar
cchorney
Explorer
Sep 05, 2014

Negotiating with dealers to Nada "average price"?

I am new to RVs, and I did search on this topic first, so please forgive me if the answer is obvious or it's a daily topic that I managed to miss finding.

Is it possible (or likely) to negotiate to the Nadaguide "average price" with a dealer? If not, how aggressively can a price be negotiated down from "list price" for a used RV?

Looking at this example (which looks like I won't be looking at for long - sale pending - but lets use it anyway):

2000 Coachmen Catalina 195K
Selling Price: $17,995.00
Mileage: 33,000

Nadaguide says that for my zip code and the listed mileage, the average retail price should be $10,986.

That's a big difference in price between what they are listing it at and what the guide says it should be selling for. Is it realistic for me to expect that level of flexibility on the dealer's part? Assuming there are no extra accessories added that would increase the value of the RV, how low can I negotiate (excluding dealer setup, taxes, title, and other fees)?

Thanks, Chris

Link to ad: http://www.flaggrv.com/default.asp?page=xInventoryDetail&id=791693&p=2&vc=class%20c&s=Price&d=D&vt=motorhome

Link to nadaguide for that yr/made/model: http://www.nadaguides.com/RVs/2000/Coachmen/M-195-RK-Ford-_/3005035/Values

17 Replies

  • BStrummin wrote:
    Dealer or PP, it's always AS IS.


    Is that always the case? I have an expectation of an internal inspection report and at least a 30 or 90 day warranty, same as with a used car.
  • I gave up trying to deal with used RV dealers over this stuff. Almost all of them were asking ridiculous amounts over NADA, while private party folks generally knew of NADA and priced their rigs accordingly and within limits. The only benefit from buying from them would be you know who to scream at when something breaks. Dealer or PP, it's always AS IS. No reason to pay several thousand dollars more.
  • ol' yeller wrote:
    You have to be very careful when you value from NADA and start adding options. If you read the notices on the NADA website, you shouldn't add anything that came standard on the coach from the manufacturer. That means cruise control, driver's side doors, refrigerators, air conditioners, generators and such are not to added on most models. My Credit Union will loan 100% of average retail but they don't add any options and only make an allowance (or deduction) for mileage. Generally when I am valuing an RV I use the NADA low retail (you know a dealer wouldn't have paid more than that) and then add or subtract for mileage. I may increase for things like full body paint or hydraulic levelers but not very much.

    If it is a private seller, the most they would ever get from a dealer is wholesale and I have no way to determine what that number would be but it is NOT NADA low retail.

    Any RV salesperson worth their salt will get your contact information in the very early stages. Make sure they have your cell phone because the likelihood of them calling before you get home is very high. I've even gotten a call weeks later (it was too late). If they don't call back then your offer isn't reasonable. Don't be put off when the dealer is asking way above NADA. They are just spitballing to see what sticks to the wall. I've had dealers drop $20,000 (on a Class C) before we begin negotiations in earnest.

    In my scenario I would NOT give the dealer my phone number etc until I followed my rules. I am trying to control the negotiations not let the dealer lead me
  • You have to be very careful when you value from NADA and start adding options. If you read the notices on the NADA website, you shouldn't add anything that came standard on the coach from the manufacturer. That means cruise control, driver's side doors, refrigerators, air conditioners, generators and such are not to added on most models. My Credit Union will loan 100% of average retail but they don't add any options and only make an allowance (or deduction) for mileage. Generally when I am valuing an RV I use the NADA low retail (you know a dealer wouldn't have paid more than that) and then add or subtract for mileage. I may increase for things like full body paint or hydraulic levelers but not very much.

    If it is a private seller, the most they would ever get from a dealer is wholesale and I have no way to determine what that number would be but it is NOT NADA low retail.

    Any RV salesperson worth their salt will get your contact information in the very early stages. Make sure they have your cell phone because the likelihood of them calling before you get home is very high. I've even gotten a call weeks later (it was too late). If they don't call back then your offer isn't reasonable. Don't be put off when the dealer is asking way above NADA. They are just spitballing to see what sticks to the wall. I've had dealers drop $20,000 (on a Class C) before we begin negotiations in earnest.
  • Agree with darsben - you need to find out what options are on it, then check the boxes on tha NADA site to get a more realistic number. The rest of his advice is sound. don't fall in love and be ready to walk, actually doing so if needed.
  • Of course the rig could have options driving the price higher.
    Also RV prices are dependent on time of year and type of rig.
    Right now in the northeast people are shopping for new rigs (to them) for the winter trek down south. IN early January the price on a rig can be much lower as there is no demand for the product.

    If you want a real ballsy way of negotiating a price do the following.
    This is what I do.
    Have a piece of paper with your name, address and phone number on it.
    Go to dealer
    Look at rig thoroughly.
    If it is what you want make a reasonable offer that you can live with. remember the dealer has to feed his family he just doesn't need to feed them Filet
    Tell the dealer you are not willing to negotiate, it is a take it or leave it offer. He will not believe you because everyone negotiates up from their first offer. Tell him If he does not accept your offer you will leave.
    He will come back and say no. At that point you hand him the paper with your name and number on it and tell him that if he changes his mind this is how you can be reached. You probably will not make it home before you get a call if your offer was reasonable.
    Done this 3 times and never had a moments buyers remorse as I paid exactly what I feel is fair. I also had one dealer that never called back.
  • The dealer will always list a high price knowing the buyer will either pay that price (good for the dealer) or negotiate the price down to what the dealer is willing to sell it for (still good for the dealer). Or if the dealer needs to move inventory will let it go for a lower than hoped for price (good for the buyer).

    Keep in mind NADA is a guide. When buying anything, I look through online resources like RVtrader.com, Ebay, Craigslist and others to see what dealers and private parties are listing like items at. I also pay attention to how long the item has been listed...longer listed means the price may not be where the market is.

    Your best bet is to find an RV you like and set a price you are comfortable with based on research and then negotiate until you find a seller willing to accept the price. If you need the RV and can't wait then you try to get the price as close to your price as possible.

    Dealers will typically say no 5 times before lowering the price to a price you are comfortable with.