Forum Discussion
consumeratlarge
Nov 13, 2014Explorer
I did exactly what you're talking about as soon as we got a septic system at our place out in the desert. It's a 32' bunkhouse trailer, entry level, and it was pretty easy to take the tank out.
I bought a toilet that was designed for minimal clearance in back, and may be the 10" one you're referring to, can't remember. I do remember putting a new flange on that led to an ABS or PVC fitting on the bottom side of the floor, then ramped the piping gently towards the septic inlet.
One decision was what to do with the gray water, and I ended up leaving the valve open and plumbing it into the septic. The output for the gray water was not too convenient to plumb into the falling sewer line because the sewer line was starting much higher (straight under the toilet), and the gray line was being adapted after the knife valve, and was much lower. I ended up using some RV hose to plumb it in to a Y connector down the line.
We really like having it, and we put a big rock in the water tank of the toilet to take up some space and still get a decent flush....we have to conserve water, since there's no well. Definitely less than a gallon per flush, though, and could be set for less. Had to go to a big bldg. supply to get the small tank that takes up less back space on the toilet, sorry can't recall the name, but around 90 dollars for tank and toilet bowl.
Like many trailers and rv's, mine had enough slop in the original rough cut hole that I didn't need to cut it at all to screw in the flange/pipe for the residential toilet. I did add a shut off with just compression fittings and cutting the water line, for winterizing. Also, I put antifreeze in the toilet bowl as well, after flushing it with a near empty tank, to minimize the amount of water I have to displace/dilute.
I have a normal rv toilet in my motorhome, which I have gotten used to, but really like the residential, water saving type in the trailer that's pretty much going to stay put for a while. I saved the tank and toilet, and can put them back in about 2 hours, I estimate, plus 8 hours running to the store 3 counties away.........
I bought a toilet that was designed for minimal clearance in back, and may be the 10" one you're referring to, can't remember. I do remember putting a new flange on that led to an ABS or PVC fitting on the bottom side of the floor, then ramped the piping gently towards the septic inlet.
One decision was what to do with the gray water, and I ended up leaving the valve open and plumbing it into the septic. The output for the gray water was not too convenient to plumb into the falling sewer line because the sewer line was starting much higher (straight under the toilet), and the gray line was being adapted after the knife valve, and was much lower. I ended up using some RV hose to plumb it in to a Y connector down the line.
We really like having it, and we put a big rock in the water tank of the toilet to take up some space and still get a decent flush....we have to conserve water, since there's no well. Definitely less than a gallon per flush, though, and could be set for less. Had to go to a big bldg. supply to get the small tank that takes up less back space on the toilet, sorry can't recall the name, but around 90 dollars for tank and toilet bowl.
Like many trailers and rv's, mine had enough slop in the original rough cut hole that I didn't need to cut it at all to screw in the flange/pipe for the residential toilet. I did add a shut off with just compression fittings and cutting the water line, for winterizing. Also, I put antifreeze in the toilet bowl as well, after flushing it with a near empty tank, to minimize the amount of water I have to displace/dilute.
I have a normal rv toilet in my motorhome, which I have gotten used to, but really like the residential, water saving type in the trailer that's pretty much going to stay put for a while. I saved the tank and toilet, and can put them back in about 2 hours, I estimate, plus 8 hours running to the store 3 counties away.........
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