Refrigerator Settings

wa8yxm wrote:

Now.. If you have any kind of extension cord between the "Hole in the wall" (Wall outlet) and the RV.... Extension cords come in assorted sizes

12GA. up to 100 foot, but half that is better,, Should be OK.

14GA 100 foot you will loose too much voltage in "Transit" 50 foot is iffy 25 foot should be OK
16 Ga,, forget it,, Don't even try

I suspect this is the problem,, Too much wire between RV and house, not big enough.

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Use a 3-light tester on the outlets (you really should have one) to make sure they have power.. A NEON night light (Little reddish bulb if you look at the bulb you see two wires, no filiment, it glows) will go out if voltage drops too low, that said, the standard NE-2 lamp fires at 90 volts PEAK.. that's around 65-70 RMS.. which is very very low.. but if the voltage drops you should notice it (Dimms)

5A through a 16 gauge wire 100 feet long (and back) results in about a 4V drop. While more than ideal, it shouldn't be enough to keep the fridges from running at all--particularly the RV fridge, which is just a heating element. The voltage drop does of course go up with power consumption. There would be a moderate voltage dip when the dorm fridge is starting, but it should still start and run without trouble. I suspect the extension cord is not a problem in this particular case.

I am assuming the converter would be loafing along since this RV has apparently been plugged in for awhile.