Refrigerator Settings

How long did you wait to check them for coldness? It could take up to 8+ hours for them to completely cool.

If you keep opening the doors to check them it will take much longer.

The control circuitry in the interior fridge requires 12 volt DC to be on.

What make and model is the interior fridge?

Do you have 120V power generally in the RV?

Do you have 120V power at the fridge outlets? I would double-check that the GFCI in the RV has not tripped. Both fridge outlets would likely be on the GFCI circuit as the outlets for them are in potentially damp/wet locations. If it has tripped and won't stay reset, it's possible that the GFCI is bad, or that there's some wiring problem, or one of the fridges needs repair due to leaking current to ground.

A 15A outlet should be quite capable of supplying both an RV fridge and a dorm fridge simultaneously. The dorm fridge uses maybe 100-200W running, and the RV fridge about 300W, so you're consuming maybe 5A of the 15A that the supply is rated for. Obviously having other things on the same circuit may alter the situation.

When you circuit breaker in your house trips you know you where trying to use to much power in your RV, but until that happens both your fridges should work so check your circuit breakers in the RV to see if they are on.

Unless you have tripped the breaker for the 15A outlet you are plugged into, they should work.

Possibly. I doubt that if you tried to start from warm both at the same time that a standard household 20A circuit would hold. Remember, there is always going to be a certain amount of draw from the converter no matter what. You can figure maybe 5A just there alone. Look on the refer data plate and see what the 120VAC amp draw is.

Sorry I didn't explain that very well. Neither fridge seems working with the camper plugged into a normal house outlet. The camper has a 30amp cord that I have an adapter so it can be plugged into a standard outlet. Is that enough power to run them?

Huh?
You say the outside refer is a dorm type? That leads me to believe that it is 120VAC only. So whats the problem?
30A should be noroblem running both refers plus one AC. Unless you have a dedicated 30A outlet for the RV you probably only have 20A.