Forum Discussion
SlowBro
Feb 27, 2015Explorer III
WyoTraveler wrote:
Depends on size of wire and probably not indicated. If it doesn't get warm use it.
2oldman wrote:
I think you're just going to have to try it and see. And by 'see', I mean making sure the plugs aren't getting hot. It'll be obvious if the generator won't do it.
Hmm I'm not comfortable with that. I had a Kill-A-Watt that was supposed to be rated for a window air conditioner but it had melted when I wasn't paying attention. I don't want fires in my sleep.
2oldman wrote:
Do you know for sure your air is 20a?
I don't know for sure, yet, but I would expect it to be greater than 15A. Also you know how the converter and fridge have some draw; I expect 15A isn't going to cut it.
I was going to use the aforementioned Kill-A-Watt to measure the startup current until I saw the melting. The Progressive Industries' surge protector output said I was only using 10A at startup but I have no idea if it had accurately captured the startup current spike. It's a 13,800 BTU unit, if that helps any. (Edit: I found the A/C user manual and it's an Airxcel / RVP Coleman 8000 series. Still don't know the exact model though.) Given its size I'd expect the startup current is higher than 10A and the surge suppressor just didn't register the peak.
(Edit: And I see this in the manual: "Each air conditioning unit must be protected with a 20 amp time delay fuse or circuit breaker.")
Having the trailer in the shop this week and I've asked the mechanics to measure the current.
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