Forum Discussion

Karanavore's avatar
Karanavore
Explorer
Jul 20, 2013

Single Axle vs Dual Axle

I apologize up front for the length and variety of questions.

I will be retiring in December. My plan is to run away from home and see the USA. It will be just me and my 2 dogs.

I currently own a 91 Coleman tent trailer. It has done its job well, but I don't need to sleep 6 any more and want better protection when it rains or gets cold. I looked at MH's for a few months, but decided a travel trailer better suits my needs.

My tow vehicle is a 2006 Toyota 4Runner with the 5.3L V-8. It's rated to tow 7300 lbs GVWR. I did some research on tow weights and saw recommendations to keep the GVWR at 80%, which would mean 5800 lbs. So I have been looking at small light weight trailers.

I'd like to keep the total length around 20' long. I have narrowed my choices down to:
A North Trail FX18. It's about 21' overall and has 4900 GVWR. I really like this one because it has a sofa bed slideout. Dual axle.
A Holiday Rambler Aluma-Lite 187. It's about 20' overall and has 3850 GVWR. No slideout. Single axle.
I've also seen a Surveyor Cadet SC189 that looks good.

Most of my research has been through the brochures. I've gone to dealers and looked at other models in the line that are on the lot, but I get the brochure for the floorplans and construction info. There doesn't appear to be a huge demand for small trailers in So Cal, the land of the toy hauler. So the inventory at various dealers is limited. I don't want to get one with something I don't want (like an overhead bunk- which dealers keep trying to sell me), so I may have to order one from the manufacturer. How does that work out?

Just some other topics I'd like to get opinions on:
I'd like to keep the 4Runner as TV mainly because it's paid off! I've pulled the Coleman with the hitch that is on there (Toyota says it's weight-distributing), but I'll change the hitch if necessary. Also, I'll need to add the trailer braking system. Good decision?
Single axle vs dual axle trailers. The salesmen I have talked to say the dual axle is more stable. I realize if I get a slideout, it will be dual axle. Any other benefits to a dual axle?
Since I plan on taking extended trips in it, or maybe even full-timing, I was looking for an upscale/medium (not entry) model line. Are the ones I've mentioned a good medium quality line?

Thank you.

14 Replies

  • IMO, backing a dual axle trailer is WAY easier than backing a single axle trailer. Single axles seem to have a mind of their own sometimes.... We own trailers of both varieties, and I'd honestly rather back the 35' gooseneck flatbed vs. the 10' single axle motorcycle trailer.
  • Take your time and find a floor plan that suits you. A slide is nice to have. It does make rainy days seem a lot less claustrophobic. As far a brake controllers go, get yourself a Prodigy P2 or P3. You will be happy with either of these controllers.
  • I can't help with the trailer. This I caught, you said that Toyota says you have a weight distributing hitch. I venture that you do not. You have a receiver that is heavy enough to make use of a WDH.
    The WDH is the hitch head component that fits into your receiver. It will consist of the shank,the drop , the hitch ball usually 2 5/16 two bars and chains and the corresponding bracket fitted to the A frame of your trailer.
    If you look at your receiver there usually will be the statement
    "Do not exceed X00 lbs/x000 lbs wdh".
    maybe you know all this, but with the statement you made I would hate to think of you dropping your trailer on a bare ball and thinking you were good
  • I think you made your preference known with the floor plan if you want to eliminate the trailers with an overhead bunk. I would no longer even look at those.

    I really like a slide, especially if I am going to spend very much time with the unit. Just my personal choice. A few rainy days make a trailer seem to shrink when you are in it a lot. Also I would go dual axle if the trailer weight does not exceed my limitations.

    Be concerned about tongue weight. A trailer need about 10-15% of it's weight on the tongue to provide a stable pull. Make sure your tow vehicle can handle that much tongue weight of the trailer you select.

    Buy a good hitch that integrates sway control into the hitch, Equalizer, Reese dual cam, or something like those. In my opinion they are much much better than using the friction sway control bars.

    Don't rule out a used unit if you find one that has been taken care of. You can save money usually if you buy from an individual. You can get price guides online from nada or kbb websites.

    These are just a few thoughts, I am sure more suggestions are coming. Good luck on your decision.