Testing water system psi when buying RV?
Maybe I'm not searching right, I can't find anything? Anybody know how the manufactures test for water leaks on the pressure side of plumbing? For myself personally, every spring I test with...
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You are testing correctly. Should hold the pressure steady for at 24 hours. Using an exterior pressure gauge is a good idea. Even better, mount a gauge inside.
Photo shows a gauge I added at hot water heater. Easy and inexpensive to do. Makes checking CG pressure easy. I use it a lot. Also installed a Watts 263A regulator inside along with a tell-tale gauge on the inlet side which shows the highest CG pressure I've encountered (80 psi so far).
RV manufacturers test the water systems to at least 100 psi. Not sure how long they let it sit. I run our pressure at 60 psi. Piping, fittings, etc. are rated 100 psi min. No difference between 50 psi air versus water. Many municipal building authorities call for a pressurized air test in residential water piping systems of 100 psi ( or thereabouts) and must hold steady for at least 24 hours.
The owner of waterfilterstore.com told me he recommends running 60 psi.
Photo shows a gauge I added at hot water heater. Easy and inexpensive to do. Makes checking CG pressure easy. I use it a lot. Also installed a Watts 263A regulator inside along with a tell-tale gauge on the inlet side which shows the highest CG pressure I've encountered (80 psi so far).
RV manufacturers test the water systems to at least 100 psi. Not sure how long they let it sit. I run our pressure at 60 psi. Piping, fittings, etc. are rated 100 psi min. No difference between 50 psi air versus water. Many municipal building authorities call for a pressurized air test in residential water piping systems of 100 psi ( or thereabouts) and must hold steady for at least 24 hours.
The owner of waterfilterstore.com told me he recommends running 60 psi.
