Travel trailer or a motorized rv w/ toad??
Hey everyone. I am brand new to RVing and do not have one yet. I'm 23 years old, so on a small budget.. but would like to dive into to full time RVing around the U.S. I have 2 pets, 1 dog 1 cat, that ...
Forum Discussion
I've done both (sort of) in a non-full-timing version. I started with a 1985 Shasta TT and my 2002 Dodge Durango. I now have a 1975 Class C motorhome (American Clipper) and no toad (still have the Durango as my DD). Here's my two-cents:
1. Size of TT/MH. With both of you being young (I'm assuming your boyfriend is comparable in age to you), a class C with the cabover bunk will give you more room for less length. An older 21-24ft MH will offer the same amount of living space as a 19-21ft TT PLUS give you a dedicated bed (cabover bunk) so you aren't converting a dinette or couch daily. This is a big deal. With the SUV, you're not going to be able to go much bigger on a TT - and if that works, then the smaller MH will work just as well (and will be more likely to be able to tow your car as a bigger MH on the same chassis will eat up more GVWR).
2. Day trips. Either the SUV or the car will work fine for day trips. Not much difference there except maybe mileage. However, if you need to take the animals with you in the SUV/car, the SUV gives you more room to do so and will keep the animals more comfortable. You might not need to worry about that, but it could possibly make a difference so I'm including it.
3. Dependability on drive train/engine on MH. Yes, older motorhomes cost money to get back into proper shape. It's very rare to find an old MH that is in tip top shape engine/transmission/carburetor-wise. Now, are they a money trap? Not necessarily. They can still be cost effective - but they're going to run you a lot more than the purchase price. For instance, if you buy a $6,000 MH and put another $20,000 into it fixing up the engine and house, you've spent $26,000 and $20,000 of that could be done over time; if you want a "drive off the lot and go cross country the same day" MH, you're going to be putting out $56,000 minimum (for a 2-5 year old used MH in great condition). The older MH is still cheaper in the long run and you don't need to finance - but you can't go full-timing immediately; the newer MH is more expensive and you can go full-timing immediately (for the most part), but you'll have to finance. The car and the SUV drive train/engines would be considered a wash under normal circumstances (as long as you buy well).
4. House appliances/parts on TT/MH. Yes, most appliances can be worked around - this goes for either the TT or the MH. As someone posted above you can go with electrical appliances (but you'll need to make sure you have a generator, solar power, large enough battery bank to handle the added electrical needs or that you stay in RV parks/campgrounds with electrical hookups). This is a wash between the two. In my situation, I found the house on my MH to be in MUCH better shape than my TT and it has been less expensive to maintain on that end. My TT had issues like the dump valve section falling off while driving down the freeway (fortunately the tanks were empty) - my MH was built to much higher standards (thank you Irv Perch).
5. Insurance. My TT insurance was about $20 less than my MH insurance - the MH is 10 years older, but it surprised me how little difference there was between the two.
6. Two functional vehicles. As you mentioned, the MH with toad will provide you with two functional vehicles. If your car needs work, you can drive the MH for a day or two while the car is in the shop. If your MH needs work, you can drive the car to a motel until the MH is ready. With the TT, if your SUV breaks down, you have no way to get around.
If you go with the MH, plan on spending at least several months test driving and going over the drive train carefully before going full-time. Plan on spending an additional $5,000 to $20,000 on repairs/replacements to get it dependable (not including tires). Check ALL the rubber (tires, hoses, belts - including all the fuel hoses for leaks).
If you go with the TT, you won't have to put that extra cost into it, but you'll only have the one vehicle and you'll be selling your car (which is in great shape) for an older/higher mileage SUV that may or may not be in as good of shape.
Either one will work, just different. I do not consider my MH to be a "money pit" - have I put money into it? YES. Have I put more than the "resale value"? - YES. Could I have bought something newer in great shape for anything near what I've spent on it? - NO. I'd have to have put out more than twice what I've spent to get a class C that didn't need money put into it.
1. Size of TT/MH. With both of you being young (I'm assuming your boyfriend is comparable in age to you), a class C with the cabover bunk will give you more room for less length. An older 21-24ft MH will offer the same amount of living space as a 19-21ft TT PLUS give you a dedicated bed (cabover bunk) so you aren't converting a dinette or couch daily. This is a big deal. With the SUV, you're not going to be able to go much bigger on a TT - and if that works, then the smaller MH will work just as well (and will be more likely to be able to tow your car as a bigger MH on the same chassis will eat up more GVWR).
2. Day trips. Either the SUV or the car will work fine for day trips. Not much difference there except maybe mileage. However, if you need to take the animals with you in the SUV/car, the SUV gives you more room to do so and will keep the animals more comfortable. You might not need to worry about that, but it could possibly make a difference so I'm including it.
3. Dependability on drive train/engine on MH. Yes, older motorhomes cost money to get back into proper shape. It's very rare to find an old MH that is in tip top shape engine/transmission/carburetor-wise. Now, are they a money trap? Not necessarily. They can still be cost effective - but they're going to run you a lot more than the purchase price. For instance, if you buy a $6,000 MH and put another $20,000 into it fixing up the engine and house, you've spent $26,000 and $20,000 of that could be done over time; if you want a "drive off the lot and go cross country the same day" MH, you're going to be putting out $56,000 minimum (for a 2-5 year old used MH in great condition). The older MH is still cheaper in the long run and you don't need to finance - but you can't go full-timing immediately; the newer MH is more expensive and you can go full-timing immediately (for the most part), but you'll have to finance. The car and the SUV drive train/engines would be considered a wash under normal circumstances (as long as you buy well).
4. House appliances/parts on TT/MH. Yes, most appliances can be worked around - this goes for either the TT or the MH. As someone posted above you can go with electrical appliances (but you'll need to make sure you have a generator, solar power, large enough battery bank to handle the added electrical needs or that you stay in RV parks/campgrounds with electrical hookups). This is a wash between the two. In my situation, I found the house on my MH to be in MUCH better shape than my TT and it has been less expensive to maintain on that end. My TT had issues like the dump valve section falling off while driving down the freeway (fortunately the tanks were empty) - my MH was built to much higher standards (thank you Irv Perch).
5. Insurance. My TT insurance was about $20 less than my MH insurance - the MH is 10 years older, but it surprised me how little difference there was between the two.
6. Two functional vehicles. As you mentioned, the MH with toad will provide you with two functional vehicles. If your car needs work, you can drive the MH for a day or two while the car is in the shop. If your MH needs work, you can drive the car to a motel until the MH is ready. With the TT, if your SUV breaks down, you have no way to get around.
If you go with the MH, plan on spending at least several months test driving and going over the drive train carefully before going full-time. Plan on spending an additional $5,000 to $20,000 on repairs/replacements to get it dependable (not including tires). Check ALL the rubber (tires, hoses, belts - including all the fuel hoses for leaks).
If you go with the TT, you won't have to put that extra cost into it, but you'll only have the one vehicle and you'll be selling your car (which is in great shape) for an older/higher mileage SUV that may or may not be in as good of shape.
Either one will work, just different. I do not consider my MH to be a "money pit" - have I put money into it? YES. Have I put more than the "resale value"? - YES. Could I have bought something newer in great shape for anything near what I've spent on it? - NO. I'd have to have put out more than twice what I've spent to get a class C that didn't need money put into it.
