What can I do with/expect from a generator?

I'll assume the gen for sale is the quiet version. That said, we've found that it's easier to run a small electric cube heater. Easier to refill the gas can, rather than propane. We have a 3000 and it'll run 30 hours in a weekend during the summer if we are using A/C. Other than feeding it gas, it works great.

If you have a source for propane, then you'll just need to re-charge batteries and run it when you need a/c.

High altitude will degrade output.

Hi valhalla,

Ty for pointing that out.

Sorry I was not clear--these numbers are from my RV--but I think that most units have similar draws.

So far as I am aware the only microwave that uses inverter technology to allow lower power levels is Panasonic. The others (and mine) merely pulse on and off to slow the cooking process.

I "get around" brief over loads by using the "load support" feature on my hybrid inverter. But be aware load support is NOT voltage support, so it still behooves the end user to monitor what is going on.

valhalla360 wrote:

pianotuna wrote:
Hi,

The microwave draws 1561 watts and the water heater 1400. Adding in the fridge is another 325 watts. One would have to rely on the water heater and fridge being in the off part of their duty cycle, or there might be quite a bit of voltage drop.


The advantage is the ability to run the roof air conditioner.

valhalla360 wrote:
Reality, is you can run the microwave, TV & fridge simultaneously. Possibly the water heater but that's pushing it a bit.

That's awfully specific...where did he list the microwave model? Some microwaves go that high but I've also seen smaller 600-800w models and you can use lower power settings.

But as I said, running microwave and water-heater simultaneously gets iffy...even at 800 + 1400 if the charger kicks on at 50amp/12v...you are pushing the limits of a 3000w generator...which is likely rated for a lower amount in continuous duty.

3000w is plenty for air/con. We run on a 2600w yamaha. (no, not with microwave and hot water heater but TV, fridge and lights we've never had a problem).

pianotuna wrote:
Hi,

The microwave draws 1561 watts and the water heater 1400. Adding in the fridge is another 325 watts. One would have to rely on the water heater and fridge being in the off part of their duty cycle, or there might be quite a bit of voltage drop.


The advantage is the ability to run the roof air conditioner.

valhalla360 wrote:
Reality, is you can run the microwave, TV & fridge simultaneously. Possibly the water heater but that's pushing it a bit.

That's awfully specific...where did he list the microwave model? Some microwaves go that high but I've also seen smaller 600-800w models and you can use lower power settings.

But as I said, running microwave and water-heater simultaneously gets iffy...even at 800 + 1400 if the charger kicks on at 50amp/12v...you are pushing the limits of a 3000w generator...which is likely rated for a lower amount in continuous duty.

3000w is plenty for air/con. We run on a 2600w yamaha. (no, not with microwave and hot water heater but TV, fridge and lights we've never had a problem).

Hi,

The microwave draws 1561 watts and the water heater 1400. Adding in the fridge is another 325 watts. One would have to rely on the water heater and fridge being in the off part of their duty cycle, or there might be quite a bit of voltage drop.

I too, would favor the Predator 3500 with electric start.

The advantage is the ability to run the roof air conditioner.

valhalla360 wrote:
Reality, is you can run the microwave, TV & fridge simultaneously. Possibly the water heater but that's pushing it a bit.

Suggest you look at Harbor Freight at the Predator 3500 inverter genset. Get one that will operate the rig. You could get by with the 2000 watt Predator.

Nominally, a 3000w generator can put out 250amps @ 12v. Reality due to system loss will be less but still probably north of 200amp @ 12v

But if it's powering a 50amp charging unit...you will be capped at 50amp.

Then assuming lead-acid batteries, they have a limit on how much charge they will take in:
- When low, it's around 25% of the amp-hr rating...which a pair of 6v batteries matches up to pretty well. They are typically around 225amp-hr @ 12v once combined.
- As they near full charge 80-90%, the amount they will accept drops off. To get to 100% can take many hours as a result.

So really the 3000w generator is a bit of overkill...if just looking at charging. Reality, is you can run the microwave, TV & fridge simultaneously. Possibly the water heater but that's pushing it a bit.

You can buy a used or new Honda/Yami 1000-2000w on CL for $300-800.
Plus it will last you forever and if you don’t like it or want to upgrade, if it’s in the same shape you can re sell it for about the same money. They don’t really depreciate.

Without getting into or needing to know what kind of inverter/battery charger you have, do yourself a favor and just get a Honda or Yami 2000w and be done with it.
Idk how/where you’d bring/store a 3000 when camping especially in the winter. Only 2 ways are front or rear hitch rack. Neither is good in the snow and salt.
A 1000w or 2000w will easily fit inside the camper or back seat of the truck. Quiet, self contained, easy, the right choice for modest power needs.

As best as I can tell, the Honda EC-3000 generator is a small, open frame contractor type generator typically sold in Latin-American countries (Mexico). It is not the inverter type EU3000i model sold in the USA.

rvshrinker wrote:
Saw a used Honda 3000ec available for $750.

bikendan wrote:
That's a great price for a Honda 3000i.

Problem is, the OP didn't say it was an EU3000i or even an EU3000iS so we really don't know what genset the OP is talking about. AFAIK there's no such thing as a Honda "3000ec" ... who knows, maybe it's an open frame genset. It's also hard to believe anyone would be selling an EU3000i or EU3000iS for just $750.