What is the purpose of low point drains?
New camper we bought has low point drains under the camper for both the hot and cold lines. I assume this is for draining the water system, is this a good enough method for winterizing? Is it just...
Forum Discussion
There are two ways (or 4) to winterize (one is kind of expendsive. one I use and the other two is where the low points come in.
1: The wet or Pink Stuff method.. Open the low point drains and the kitchen sink, Drain and bypass the water heater. Also the ice maker (I won't describe how to drain it here) Once it's all drained add pink stuff to the lines via one or another method (again I won't describe as others will do that)
2: Dry method. This is where the low point drains SHINE
Open all valves. Drain and bypass the water heater (Same as above) drain the ice maker (Again same as above) Blow Babriel Blow using a tank type air compressor and regulator (50 psi is good) and blow out adapter (There are two types I like the Quick Connect type better than the tire stem type. Easier to use.
With my six gallon 150 PSI compressor I blow till exhausted (out of air) let it run till it shuts off and do it again, like 5-10 times.. There may still be a few drops of water left but .. not enough to do damage. now close vales and wait till spring. Pink the drains and toilets.
Advantage dry
1: If the air freezes I won't worry about the RV
2: No Pink Stuff to flush out of the lines (Flushing drains is .. Easy Flushing fresh, not so much)
3: Lower cost.
Now the method I use the "S" method Drive south (Upstate S.Carolina lowlands (under 1000' altitude) for me.. I have seen 11 degrees here (Had one line freeze no damage) but only once (poor Campground had to bulldoze the main building and rebuild) The full S method you strap on a snow blower and when someone asks "What the "BLEEP" is that.. You are winterized.. I did not do that But Home Depot does not display them here :) (Though they do need 'em about 1000' up the mountain and I'm in the Blue Ridge toe hills)
4: The expensive method: Heated indoor storage.
1: The wet or Pink Stuff method.. Open the low point drains and the kitchen sink, Drain and bypass the water heater. Also the ice maker (I won't describe how to drain it here) Once it's all drained add pink stuff to the lines via one or another method (again I won't describe as others will do that)
2: Dry method. This is where the low point drains SHINE
Open all valves. Drain and bypass the water heater (Same as above) drain the ice maker (Again same as above) Blow Babriel Blow using a tank type air compressor and regulator (50 psi is good) and blow out adapter (There are two types I like the Quick Connect type better than the tire stem type. Easier to use.
With my six gallon 150 PSI compressor I blow till exhausted (out of air) let it run till it shuts off and do it again, like 5-10 times.. There may still be a few drops of water left but .. not enough to do damage. now close vales and wait till spring. Pink the drains and toilets.
Advantage dry
1: If the air freezes I won't worry about the RV
2: No Pink Stuff to flush out of the lines (Flushing drains is .. Easy Flushing fresh, not so much)
3: Lower cost.
Now the method I use the "S" method Drive south (Upstate S.Carolina lowlands (under 1000' altitude) for me.. I have seen 11 degrees here (Had one line freeze no damage) but only once (poor Campground had to bulldoze the main building and rebuild) The full S method you strap on a snow blower and when someone asks "What the "BLEEP" is that.. You are winterized.. I did not do that But Home Depot does not display them here :) (Though they do need 'em about 1000' up the mountain and I'm in the Blue Ridge toe hills)
4: The expensive method: Heated indoor storage.
