Winterizing

Pull the drain plug/anode rod to drain the water heater.
Go to backside (inside the trailer), and actuate the water heater bypass valves.
Run the water pump a few seconds to clear out its little piece of line.
Attach air to city water connection.
Open low point drains and blow water out. Finger tight the caps back on.
Open each faucet (kitchen, bathroom, shower) and toilet to blow them clear.
Do the low point drains a second time for the fun of it.
Open all faucets.
Pour a little antifreeze down each drain, enough to fill the trap plus some to make it to the holding tank. Pour a little down the toilet.

Do this to mine every year, sees -20*F.

Don't know why it took so long to get it out unless you put antifreeze in the fresh water tank. Just pumping it thru the water lines and it will clear out very quickly when you hook back up to a fresh water source.

And winterizing the water heater means draining it, not putting in antifreeze or blowing it out.

BB_TX wrote:
Don't know why it took so long to get it out unless you put antifreeze in the fresh water tank.

Maybe the OP is talking about the taste from the antifreeze?

I've been doing it in WY with no problems. I dump fresh water tank & I dump my water heater. Run the water pump until no water comes out of lines. put the plug back in and finish blowing out the lines. When finished I remove the water heater plug to make sure it remains drained. After blowing out the lines remove any water filter housings. Pour pink stuff in traps. I put couple of cups of pink stuff in my washer and spin it out to fill washer trap. Make sure toilet and outside shower get blown out, also ice maker line. I leave one valve open all the time. Open second valve close first to make sure pressure doesn't build too high. Set my compressor to 45 PSI. I winterize and de-winterize on the road. Takes me about 15 minutes. A little slower with the washer spinning out.

Thanks for all the replys , by the way i did put the antifreeze {non toxic )in the fresh water tank . I dont even know what a hot water heater bypass is , would i have one on a 95 Keystone Zypher ?

Oops 05

If you should want to use antifreeze you should use a winterizing pump and pump the AF thru the fresh water inlet rather than putting it in the fresh water tank.

You would need to look behind the water heater and see if there are isolation/bypass valves there. Google Rv water heater bypass to see some examples.

boogie_4wheel wrote:
Pull the drain plug/anode rod to drain the water heater.
Go to backside (inside the trailer), and actuate the water heater bypass valves.
Run the water pump a few seconds to clear out its little piece of line.
Attach air to city water connection.
Open low point drains and blow water out. Finger tight the caps back on.
Open each faucet (kitchen, bathroom, shower) and toilet to blow them clear.
Do the low point drains a second time for the fun of it.
Open all faucets.
Pour a little antifreeze down each drain, enough to fill the trap plus some to make it to the holding tank. Pour a little down the toilet.

Do this to mine every year, sees -20*F.

That is exactly what I do every year.

Bob Barrett wrote:
Thanks for all the replys , by the way i did put the antifreeze {non toxic )in the fresh water tank . I dont even know what a hot water heater bypass is , would i have one on a 95 Keystone Zypher ?

You may not have one. My neighbor's 98 Shasta Class C does not. My 06 Tioga does. It is simply a ball valve with a lever that shuts off the main water supply to the heater. You would have to trace your main line to the heater to find out if one is installed.