? Concrete Pad Question

Ivylog, Glad you are not doing my driveway. No way I would spend that kind of money and then park a 14K fiver on it after 5 days. Which means you are probably also parking a 6k lb truck on it at the same time, at least temporarily.

OP , Before you park on new concrete do a google search for how long it REALLY takes concrete to cure, and recommendations for cure before driving something heavy on it.

Since your question is parking then you only need two strips or pads under the tires. Pads under the landing jacks would also be nice.

However, a driveway is a separate topic with more opinions. Especially if the trailer has to make any turns on its way to its parking spot. Multiple axle trailer tires will scuff during turns so gravel/grass would need periodic repairs.

newman fulltimer wrote:
8 inches down the center drive on area 6 on non weight area

For a RV???

dcmac214 wrote:
Got what I need for now -- Thanks all!

No sharing???

There are a few things which I'd trust to professionals. Pouring concrete is something I'd do pretty much once, so I want to make sure the job is done right.

If I had to do it myself (since Harvey has gotten every single handiman out of the woodwork and building in Houston), I would be getting people who know something about concrete, getting some equipment to compact the soil, get the forms in place, make sure there is enough rebar present, pour ten inches (RVs are heavy), make sure the concrete is wet so it cures at max strength, and wait at least seven days, ideally 14 before my stuff goes on it.

I mention 8-10 inches because RVs are heavy relative to other vehicles, especially if someone also has a truck on the slab as well.

There are other issues as well. Drainage comes to mind.

I was told: 28 days to cure 98% and 28 years for the 2%. BTW, the drier your mix is, the stronger it will be.

I am a concrete guy of 30 plus years,I just put in my driveway 5" concrete.004 mesh, sawcut joints on 10'squares. wait 2- weeks to drive on. use a cure & seal spray on. 4000psi concrete with air. make sure it is straight cement content. NO FLY ASH after 28 days caulk all the joints, you can buy backer rod & caulk at home depot calculating concrete length x width x .42 divide x 27 that's for 5" driveway I have a class A 41' not 1 crack. did it last spring

6 inches and one half rebar 2 foot on center and 3500 pound concrete

Cummins12V98 wrote:

newman fulltimer wrote:
8 inches down the center drive on area 6 on non weight area

For a RV???

Thats what I was thinking. I have had two RV pads on two different homes here in Utah, so there is the freezing issue. Both pads were poured with 6 bag , and the standard 2x4 forming.

The first one in the late seventies did get some cracks, but held up well otherwise. The problem back then it seemed we just poured , with not enough expansion . My first one was 15 feet wide one expansion joint down the center, okay there ,but it was like around 50 feet long, with expansion joints around every 12 feet. Not enough, it has to expand.

My present RV pad is 80 feet from street to back of the house . Only 11 feet wide , expansion up the center ,and every 6 feet or so the length of it. So 5*1/2 x 6 foot sections. No cracks, other then where it cracked in the expansions. going on 18 years ,looks as good as it did new. Has had a 38' foot fifth wheel on it for the past 10 years. To add this driveway ,and RV pad was poured with fiber mess. No rebar.

monkeygirl wrote:
I am a concrete guy of 30 plus years... make sure it is straight cement content. NO FLY ASH ...

Really, no Flyash? Maybe you can tell me why that is seeing that every professional organization such as ACI, ASCE, FHA, ACPA, all recommend a minimum of 15% flyash and preferably 25%. And before you comment, maybe you should look up ASR (Alkali-Silica Reactivity). And we won't even talk about GGBFS which is also used at up to 40% cement replacement.