dragr1 wrote:
So I may be ok with not going over the 1200 pound tongue weight of the factory hitch? I realize that I won't know for sure without weighing with the WDH disconnected.
So less tilt on the WDH head may help to put more weight on the front axle?
They did take several measurements with a tape. But I'm sure they aren't as concerned about it being perfect as we are.
Well, odds are very high you will be over 1,200#. If the camper is 9100# now, add 1,000 to 1,200# of stuff that is 10,300#. 14% TW on 10,300# which is ideal is 1,442#. I do not bet on machinery (learned that long ago) but there is very little odds you will be 1,200 or under once fully loaded. Your floor plan loads towards the tongue. Mine went from 950# to 1,600#. Rear living floor plans can do this....
Edit: If you buy a new receiver, get one rated ideally 1,600# to 1,700# in WD mode. You do not want to buy it twice.
You want to tilt the hitch head back towards the camper to increase the WD. It puts more tip down on the WD bars and creates more spring preload when you put them on the L brackets. On the EQ hitch you add extra washers to the pin between the shank and the hitch head to tilt the head back more. My guess is 2 washers if they have the L brackets setup right. It is a trail and error setup.
And no, many dealers are not perfectionist in dialing in WD on a new camper sale. Especially when a customer rolls in with a 1 ton truck. Let the truck take it. It takes "time" to dial in WD.
And they did not give you an EQ manual.... not surprising. When I bought my 1st Reese I asked the dealer, who was a Reese dealer for years, is there a set of instructions for this hitch? The shop foreman said no, you need more weight transfer just take up a link... Reese and just about every other hitch manufacture has instructions on their products and now they are on line.
Equal-I-zer has good instructions. They are a good company with good support.
John
