dragr1 wrote:
Weighed it again, but just didn't have time to unhook and weigh seperately.
Moving up one notch on the frame brackets did change the distribution of weight on the truck some.
Front 4600
Rear 4580
Trailer 8760
Trailer axle weight was exactly the same as last time. The front axle gained 120 pounds and the rear axle lost 160 pounds. I know it's not the same since I couldn't weigh the truck and camper seperately. But, it's all I could squeeze in time wise today. I did determine that now the front axle weight of the truck is within 60 pounds of what the front axle weighs w/o the camper in tow.
So, is having the front and rear of the truck being almost identical weight ideal?
On the way to the campground it was definitely noticeable to be towing better. One the way home we had another 30-40 mph windy day with higher gusts. The wind gusts would cause a little sway but nothing that was uncontrollable. You could really feel the wind push me around though.
One other thing I noticed today was that the equalizer bars were actually bending under load. I didn't think these solid steel square bars would bend like other weight distribution bars. Is this normal?
OK trying to piece together the weight and your latest L bracket move. I assembled the weights from your thread. Ideally you can get all 3 weights sets at one time, but lets see what we have with what you got.
12/29/12
Before Weights
Truck Empty:
Front axle: 4660
Rear axle: 2880
Total 7540
1/23/13
Front 4480
Rear 4740
Trailer 8760
Total 17980
3/25/13
Front 4600
Rear 4580
Trailer 8760
I do agree that with the last L bracket move you shifted weight (~129#) to the front of the truck. But something is not adding up with the TT axles. If you shift 129# to the front, something has to go to the TT axles. I see the numbers on the screen say the TT axles did not change, but something else did. Did you take something out of the camper to lower the GVW?
It does sound like your stability did increase with the L bracket move. This can very well be from the L bracket move. It puts more tension on the square trunnion sockets which then creates a stiffer TT to TV connections.
To the front axle and the rear axle being about the same weight, this is by chance, not intent and sometimes it just comes out that way. It is not a bad thing. The main thing about WD is what is going on with the front axle. The rear comes along for the ride. If you had a gasser engine the weight would be different yet the hitch is set the same.
Your rear axle "appears" to have gained 1,700# from this last trip to the 1st empty truck weighing. Since your front axle is close to back to empty truck weight, well you must have gear in the back of the truck or you have one heavy bugger of a loaded tongue weight. At this point it is speculation as we do not have the unhitched truck weight or the TV and TT hitched and no WD bars engaged.
The Equal-I-zer like Barney said counts on the trunnion sockets to be tight. On page 23, EQ states to grease the trunnion socket to the hitch head area. The grease will cut down on the wear and it will cut down on some of the anti sway control friction. You may or may not notice it. The sockets will pivot easier greased. Are yours greased now?
To the torque, The manual did not state what size bolt or grade it is. As a point of reference a Grade 8 (6 radial lines on head) has a dry bolt torque of 120 ft lb at 75% of yield. A grade 5 (3 radial lines) dry bolt torque is 78 ft lb at 75% of yield. The 150 ft lb estimate really needs to be on a 5/8" bolt if it is that high.
http://www.engineershandbook.com/Tables/torque.htmWhat bolt dia size are those socket bolts? You really do not want to go a lot above the 75% of yield tightening if you plan on reusing the bolts. I have heard reports of these socket bolts loosing often. The TT shop may have really tightened them to keep them tight.
A better way for anti back off is to create this type of joint. I use this often in high vibration situations. Get a bolt with enough threads exposed. Torque the 1st nut to were you want it. Then install a lock washer, then install another full nut as a jam nut. lock washer is between the 2 nuts. Make sure you hold the torqued nut when tighten the jam nut. You can then pivot the bolt if they move from the sockets turning and and the nuts will not loosen. A single normal spring lock washer and a single nut will loosen over time in a pivoting situation.
At this point you will have to establish what torque they are set at. You can try and de-torque measure them to get in the league, but need to torque them up to be sure what they are set at. Good idea to do this now before they do loosen up then you have no idea where they were when it worked alright.
Hope this helps
John
