2015 RAM Integrated Brake Controller.

We picked up our new Coachman Chaparral Fifth Wheel on Saturday. Camper is 35' long and weighs 9249 empty. I set it up as the fourth trailer I have loaded in my integrated factory controller list. Set it to heavy electric and gain at 6.5. I test pulled in lot and brakes would stop truck and trailer at 10mph roll with slide bar no truck brakes applied. In route home I backed gain down to 6.0 as I felt trailer brakes were heavy in comparison to truck brakes. I always run my trailer brakes slightly more than tuck just so I feel them apply. This all being said my integrated controller is working fine and I still feel that this system works better than my prodigy I have used for years with my other trailers at home in my other truck. I really like setting up each trailer to its own setting and not having to fiddle with the controller everytime I hook something else up. Just select the trailer I am towing and go.

For those thinking the IBS is tied to the trucks anti-skid, there isn't really anything the engineers could do to effectively tie the anti skid brakes of the truck into the trailer braking system as there is no feedback system available to enable the system to know what the trailer brakes are doing.

This weekend, I got the opportunity to tow a different fifth wheel with different brakes than the ones on my fifth wheel. The tow was from the Watford North Dakota area to Rawlins Wyoming through a variety of conditions ranging from dry, to freezing rain/glare ice to packed snow floor and a little over 6 inches of fresh snow on the road. As conditions change I normally adjust my brake controller appropriately. With my 2015 3500 even on ice I never adjusted the gain less than 6.5 at which point the truck brakes were taking slightly more of the braking duties than the trailer was. Unfortunately, even on a steep decent no matter how you set the controller you couldn't stop the combination of truck and trailer with just the trailer brakes, which in my opinion is an unsafe condition. With the same trailer you can do this easily in with other vehicles IBC.

Finally, the issue isn't whether or not you can lock the trailer brakes, it's whether or not you have the ability to adjust them to work at just less than the lock point in a variety of conditions with an assortment of trailers all of which will probably have different voltage requirements to work their best.

PackerBacker wrote:
I tow 32.5' that is usually around 8,500lbs With a 2014 Ram 1500. the integrated brake controller works much more effectively than the Prodigy that I used with my Ram 2500 that pulled a 30'5th wheel at around the same weight.

I set the integrated controller at level 4 and I can just about lock the trailer wheels using the manual activation at around 15 mph; beyond level 4 they actually lock up. When at normal driving speeds I easily feel the trailer brakes engage when I touch the truck brake pedal which is what I have always considered as normal.

I noticed a big difference with my 2015 Ram 3500 CTD hauling a 34' TT at little over 9000 lbs. than my after market curt in my previous 2006 Ram CTD. set at 4 too. Much better. Of course I use exhaust brake too. Luv that Exhaust Brake!

Ive been trying to reply to this but having troubles...

I have a 2015 2500 and CANNOT slide brakes on my trailer with 6k dexter axles when trying to set gain as instructed in the manual.

Measured Voltage with my multimeter is about 8-9 depending on Heavy or Light electric with Heavy having LESS output.

If BossHogg hasn't already commented, he had a RAM engineer explain that the ITBM is programed to only put out 70% duty cycle under 30mph. Scary if you have big brakes that require 10.5v to fully apply.

My fathers 2012 3500 only need 4-4.5 gain with my trailer, I set mine at 7-7.5 gain. Same trailer, same load, same truck make.

BenK wrote:

4X4Dodger wrote:
snip....


In a panic stop situation, and I mean by that a TRUE panic stop situation, which should be EXTREMELY rare, you should reach down and hit those trailer brakes before you step on the truck brakes.

I know this takes concentration, but it is what every big rig driver knows to do to keep that trailer straight. Those who don't do this often end up jack-knifed or worse.

My 2014 Ram 2500 has the same brake controller as the '15 and I feel it works as it should.

I do NOT have to do that, as with my P3 and TV brake pedal switch...it
does that for me when I just touch the TV brake pedal...the brake light
switch sets before the MC rod is moved

Once the P3 tells the trailer brakes to turn on with the preset boost
level...the accelerometer takes over and will continue to tell the
trailer to brake

Then when my foot moves further down to then touch the TV MC Piston
to then develop MC PSI (this is when these MC PSI sensed, highly integrated
brake controls will 'START' to tell the trailer brakes to turn on)...the
TV will then join in braking...which will then tell the accelerometer
that there is even more deceleration...to then have the P3 send more
if it hasn't topped out at 12VDC


As for 'highly integrated'...EVERYTHING on/in the TV's computer systems
are tied in...and...too many times by software coders (not necessarily
an engineer) who know little to nothing about towing

These are the sub-systems that I can think of that are tied to the
computing system(s) of any of today's TV's...heck vehicles..as a buddy
just bought a Mercedes and had to take classes to learn HOW2 deal
with the +100 computers of her C class

• ABS
• Traction Control
• Torque Control
• Tow-Haul
• Sway Control
• Power Mode
• Shift Points

Can even ask if the AWD/4x4/etc are tied into this...betcha a Costco Dog
that it is...

Tractor trailers have had computer controlled anti lock braking systems for years including most trailers.

But in an extreme situation I will always pull those trailer brakes first. Period. While the new systems have REDUCED the tendency for trailers to jacknife or worse it has definitely NOT eliminated it by any means. Getting on the trailer brakes first is always going to be your SAFEST option.

Oh...read of it years ago, but confirmed by buddy after her second class on HOW2
manage her sedan...

Scared the daylights out of her...her seat belts has the explosive pre-tensioners
that are set off at the same time the air bag is set off

Both employ explosives and now she thinks there is a bomb on her seat belt. Told
her to ask the instructor and she did...but the guy only knew what was in his
instructors book...just that Mercedes uses small explosives in their seat belt
pre-tensioner system

For those who don't know what the seat belt pre-tensioner system is...
Seat belts work best when really snug and folks normally don't tighten
them enough.

So the OEMs has these systems to tighten them even more during an accident
and are tied in with the steering wheel air bag safety system computers

Now back to this thread...wonder how the IBC is tied into the computer system's
emergency/accident software algorithms...steering wheel air bag, side curtain
air bags...does the rear seats have air bags now?

4X4Dodger wrote:
snip....


In a panic stop situation, and I mean by that a TRUE panic stop situation, which should be EXTREMELY rare, you should reach down and hit those trailer brakes before you step on the truck brakes.

I know this takes concentration, but it is what every big rig driver knows to do to keep that trailer straight. Those who don't do this often end up jack-knifed or worse.

My 2014 Ram 2500 has the same brake controller as the '15 and I feel it works as it should.

I do NOT have to do that, as with my P3 and TV brake pedal switch...it
does that for me when I just touch the TV brake pedal...the brake light
switch sets before the MC rod is moved

Once the P3 tells the trailer brakes to turn on with the preset boost
level...the accelerometer takes over and will continue to tell the
trailer to brake

Then when my foot moves further down to then touch the TV MC Piston
to then develop MC PSI (this is when these MC PSI sensed, highly integrated
brake controls will 'START' to tell the trailer brakes to turn on)...the
TV will then join in braking...which will then tell the accelerometer
that there is even more deceleration...to then have the P3 send more
if it hasn't topped out at 12VDC


As for 'highly integrated'...EVERYTHING on/in the TV's computer systems
are tied in...and...too many times by software coders (not necessarily
an engineer) who know little to nothing about towing

These are the sub-systems that I can think of that are tied to the
computing system(s) of any of today's TV's...heck vehicles..as a buddy
just bought a Mercedes and had to take classes to learn HOW2 deal
with the +100 computers of her C class

• ABS
• Traction Control
• Torque Control
• Tow-Haul
• Sway Control
• Power Mode
• Shift Points

Can even ask if the AWD/4x4/etc are tied into this...betcha a Costco Dog
that it is...

Chuck_thehammer wrote:
my understanding.. the Big 3... the factory trailer brake controller is tied into the trucks anti-lock brakes.. so locking the trailer brakes do not happen.

except under very hard braking and under maximum traction. and NOT manually.

but no system is perfect .. and a few combinations may not work so well

I think you have this right. In any case you DO NOT want your trailer brakes to lock up. That is dangerous.

In a panic stop situation, and I mean by that a TRUE panic stop situation, which should be EXTREMELY rare, you should reach down and hit those trailer brakes before you step on the truck brakes.

I know this takes concentration, but it is what every big rig driver knows to do to keep that trailer straight. Those who don't do this often end up jack-knifed or worse.

My 2014 Ram 2500 has the same brake controller as the '15 and I feel it works as it should.

I tow three different trailers with my 2015 Ram 2500 Diesel truck and have had no issues with using the integrated controler. It is by far the best unit I have used. I like how I can store up to four trailers in the unit and set the braking level for each one at three different levels and it stays set that way. It works as proportionate with the ABS system. When I am pulling 12,000 gooseneck trailer with tow haul activated and exhaust brake on I can tell you I can stop quicker than any truck I have ever owned. When you are towing do you have the tow haul turned on and the exhaust brake activated? Mine will act different towing if I leave one turned off.

Thanks everyone, I decided to sell the integrated kit and get a P3.