30 Amp VS 50 Amp
I know that problems will be caused if you try to run 2 A/Cs while on a 30 Amp service, but will there be any problem running 1 A/C & using the microwave at the same time & should the water heater be ...
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pianotuna wrote:Samsonsworld wrote:
Not everything turns on or surges at the same time. Its just not as big a deal as some make it out to be.
Mitch, 12a shocks me on the water heater. (edit: Yep, 1400w/120 = 11.6...most inefficient thing on there.)
"inefficient" resistance heat uses 99.9% of the energy.
Where one needs to worry is motor operated devices such as the horribly inefficient roof air conditioners. Below 107 volts there is ongoing cumulative permanent damage to the device.
If I'm in that situation I connect the autoformer. I've used it at an input voltage of 97 on a 15 amp circuit successfully. I did have to move the fridge to propane there were no other 120 volt loads except for the inverter charger. The house batteries were fully charged.
I do limit energy input to 24 amps using the inverter/charger and often have the load support feature active.
The largest load is the microwave at 1570 watts. I don't "cook" in it but do thaw home made meals. 222 seconds and my knife and fork are active.
RV roof ac units as you mention are not very efficient, but since they are just moving heat, even the worst one will move around 3-44BTU for every BTU of input power. The typical roof AC unit is around 13.5KBTU and the input draw is about 12A, or 1450W= 4300BTU input, 13.5KBTU out. Around the same for a heat pump ac unit, for 4000BTU in you will get around 13K BTU out. 3x that of resistance heating.
A sticks and bricks AC unit trounces that.
