After oxidation removal what next if anything?

Before tackling this job I removed the old cracked up decals of scenery pictures. Front ,back sides. Leaving just the swoosh decals that had been redone on this 08 Cedar Creek.
I used GraphXoff....
https://forums.goodsamclub.com/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/29877310.cfm
Trailer looks much better with the graffiti gone??

You can't go wrong using a good product. Rejex has a great reputation in the boating world along with others like Meguires Flagship.

This is extreme but I am just starting to clean up my boat to make it look a bit nicer to sell. I am ashamed of myself but the boat has been sitting outdoors in storage since the end of 2006. Before forgetting about it & going RVing I did a pretty good job of mothballing it which involved a very thorough cleaning & waxing.

Thirteen years later it is looking very sad & I was dreading the work involved to bring it back, if it can be brought back. All kinds of things have been growing on it. Big surprise yesterday when I first tackled it with plain water & a stiff bristled boat deck brush. Most of the ick brushed right off leaving stains in the worst areas. Next step was to roll on muriatic acid using a small short nap roller. Bingo! brown stain gone. Rinsed the acid off with a soft brush, an old one well used from cleaning the trailer, & was left with a gelcoat that looks to be in remarkably good condition.

Next step will be a soap & water wash followed by a cleaner wax, 3M marine cleaner wax, finishing off with Meguires Flagship wax.

Looking forward to the results. Hoping to add thousands in value to the boat simply by looking fresh & clean. Should take some before, during & after pics. Hope to get the bulk of the cleaning done this week weather permitting.

Can't help but wonder how bad it would be had I not given it the attention before mothballing it in the spring of 2007?

A word of advice to anyone thinking of trying muriatic acid or Mary Kate On Off on a RV. DON'T DO IT. The acid will have a very nasty reaction with the cheap metal fasteners used in RV construction & any alloy metals it might touch. Nasty stuff. Best to use traditional cleaners such as Simple Green, Tepol or dishwashing liquids to clean a neglected RV before the compounding, if necessary, & waxing stage.

I also use it on the front of the truck all summer for the same reason.

I originally bought ReJex for the boat as it was recommended for “lake stain”. Most definitely worked.
I found the product at Woodies RV in Edmonton. There they told me the staff was using it on their cars.
So I tried it on the front of our fifth. A couple years ago I parked the trailer in the fall and did not get around to cleaning the bugs off the front.
In January we headed south. When we went through Salt Lake it was raining hard. The bugs all slid off.
I’m sold on ReJex.

Agree, you need to know the difference between one product & another. The multi purpose cleaner waxes don't last. They are great for getting light oxidation off but for protection that lasts a sealant of some type needs to be used.

There are plenty good ones out there. My product of choice is Meguires Flagship. This comes from many many years of saltwater kept boats before the RV came along.

It helps also if you have the right weapons, tools, for the job. Mine is a Makita polisher. One heavy brute of a machine but very effective.

Yes you need wax on it. To protect it.

If you're talking fiberglas/gelcoat the answer is some kind of sealant (& sealant being the crucial word). I use Turtle Wax "Ice". Used it for years on my boats & it worked great so I use it on my RV now as well.

You can Google it, but there's a video with a 10lb brain chemist dude out there talking about this stuff & he references the fact that 'wax' such as carnuba, is arguably the best deep shine you can get (for a minute) but the problem with it is it has a super low melting/burn-off point... somewhere around 80-something/90-degrees IIRC. Screw that. Where I live I'd be waxing my rig every day for 5-6 months a year.

Once you remove the oxidation you have to 'seal it' or else it'll come back right away (like rust on a bare piece of iron).

I'm always working on one side or the other or the front or back with wax.

I always do wax after deoxidizing. Great post. I am sure to learn alot. Thanks