Annode / WH plug

I don't know Terry...I'd do what it takes to get that plug out and make sure.
No need to tell you what a cracked water heater tank will cost you...
Good luck with it.

When draining via low point drains did you open the PRV on water heaater?

Suburban WH? Use a 1 1/16" socket or 27mm socket.
Try to tighten drain plug just a little before trying to remove. You may need a 'cheater bar'

You should remove more frequently and use teflon tape or anti-seize on plug threads

IF your WH doesn't have check valves in the lines:

Pressurize the system with air into the city water connection. Disconnect the air hose, the check valve in the city water inlet will hold the pressure.

Then open the low point cold drain.

Repeat as necessary. The WH will get an air bubble in it and force the water out the cold inlet (if it doesn't have a check valve.)

One trick to removing the plug is to tighten it more then take it out

Sooner or later you will need to replace the anode. You might as well get it out now, using a bar and Skip's trick to remove it. Once out, the teflon tape works for me, to aid in removel next time, as well as make a good seal.

Jerry

I needed a 2 foot pipe on the end of the breaker bar... to get mine to turn.

but I did not tighten it back as much.

If you can borrow an electric rattle wrench, i bet it will spin right out.

2

Yeah. I'll get it out. I put some penetrating oil on it, let it sit, and try again. Felt like I was picking up the entire TT this time.

And it has only been since I last winterized it last year that the plug has been in there. But I guess it rusted in place.

And I did run the air thru the water heater.

When I opened the low points. Water ran out for like 15 minutes, That's why I though it may have drained the WH too.

OK. I got it off. Guess what. The low point draines DO drain the water heater. It didn't have a drop of water in it. I do need a new anode rod though. Just about eaten up.