Won't come out. So I opened the low point drains and let the water out that way. On my old TT, that drained the WH as well. But I really can't tell on this one, If the WH drained or not. I can say. Water ran out of the low points for a good long time. Then blew out the lines, with all by pass valves open. Only got air out of the faucets. Think I'm good to go

I don't know Terry...I'd do what it takes to get that plug out and make sure.No need to tell you what a cracked water heater tank will cost you...Good luck with it.

When draining via low point drains did you open the PRV on water heaater?Suburban WH? Use a 1 1/16" socket or 27mm socket.Try to tighten drain plug just a little before trying to remove. You may need a 'cheater bar'You should remove more frequently and use teflon tape or anti-seize on plug threads

IF your WH doesn't have check valves in the lines:Pressurize the system with air into the city water connection. Disconnect the air hose, the check valve in the city water inlet will hold the pressure.Then open the low point cold drain.Repeat as necessary. The WH will get an air bubble in it and force the water out the cold inlet (if it doesn't have a check valve.)

One trick to removing the plug is to tighten it more then take it out

Sooner or later you will need to replace the anode. You might as well get it out now, using a bar and Skip's trick to remove it. Once out, the teflon tape works for me, to aid in removel next time, as well as make a good seal.Jerry

Annode / WH plug | Good Sam Community

Old-Biscuit
Explorer III
Oct 20, 2013
Terryallan wrote:
OK. I got it off. Guess what. The low point draines DO drain the water heater. It didn't have a drop of water in it. I do need a new anode rod though. Just about eaten up.

Been a year since last time........so you might want to change that to twice a year.
mlts22
Explorer
Oct 21, 2013
I use an extension rod (so I have 6-12 inches longer length), big socket wrench, and the usual socket. So far, I've had decent luck in breaking mine free, although I always wrap the thing up with Teflon tape before it goes back in so I can get it out easily next year.
stickdog
Explorer
Oct 21, 2013
Never had a problem replacing mine guess because hw is used year round. Maybe OP should keep the anode rod/plug out till spring just remember to replace it then.
Terryallan
Explorer II
Oct 21, 2013
stickdog wrote:
Never had a problem replacing mine guess because hw is used year round. Maybe OP should keep the anode rod/plug out till spring just remember to replace it then.

Nope it's back in. Not taking a chance of something making a home in the water heater. I'll get a new one in the spring. Have too. It's pretty well gone near the threads. It's only in it's second year. Seems like it getting used up awful fast.
kmbelt
Explorer
Oct 21, 2013
Hook up to city water and let it start to fill your water heater tank with the anode rod out. Then use a small steel wire brush in it to clean the rust out of the threads. Turn water off and then run the anode rod in and out a few times. Turn water back on and clean it again with wire brush.

When you put your anode rod back in, use thread tape or similar liberally and it will help keep them from rusting together so bad.
Old-Biscuit
Explorer III
Oct 22, 2013
Terryallan wrote:
stickdog wrote:
Never had a problem replacing mine guess because hw is used year round. Maybe OP should keep the anode rod/plug out till spring just remember to replace it then.

Nope it's back in. Not taking a chance of something making a home in the water heater. I'll get a new one in the spring. Have too. It's pretty well gone near the threads. It's only in it's second year. Seems like it getting used up awful fast.

No need to replace until sacrificial material wrapped around the steel core has deteriorated by 75%......still doing it's job and the steel core stays intact.
Just remove, clean 2X a year.

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