Forum Discussion
ajriding
Sep 06, 2019Explorer II
My big concerns on that list is the leak test. Yes, you will smell propane. The rubber hose off the tank will last 10 years or more, replace that if you want .
Also the smoke and LP detectors.These have a short life. About 6 years, there is no test, just replace it after 5-7 years as the critical part degrades and will not work.
And with these little fire extinguishers I have shot off 25 year old ones from a junk yard that worked perfect. They have a pressure indicator, so if that is in range then likely it is good. As other post suggest, shake it every 6 months to keep chemicals mixed
I do keep my tires covered.Tires are also 6 year items, no matter if they get driven or not
I have two axles with Dexter Nev-R-Adjust breaks. just wait until you notice issues. If you wait too long, 20 years, then there is a chance the brake material will break away from its backing plate, I have seen this, but on really old brakes that never were hooked to a controller/ never used…, or rust could freeze everything up and nothing works.
Wait until you notice a loss in performance, or change pads every 6 years…
I can inspect the tires for wear. If you were more robust then you can replace it when it oes flat… but also risk damage from a flat falling apart and ravaging the side and fender of your trailer. They should last 6 yrs
Should I just keep track of the mileage and have the bearings / brakes inspected every 5k miles? Yes. or 6-7k miles. You can jack the tire an inch off the ground then put a big screw driver or crow bar under the tire and check for play. If there is play in the wheel (bearing) then it needs to be tightened, if no play then no need to mess with it. If you have the grease fitting on the hub, then grease it with a grease gun every few 3,000 miles just for good measure. Driving on a loose bearing is not the end of the world
Note: I will be sticking with CW for now. find the repair needs yourself and let them warranty it then
I know about the anode rod in the water heater. I have DSI. So "annual maint" is just drain it, replace the rod, blow it out with a can of air and scrub the igniter points with a toothbrush? (I learned about most that from YT when I was having a DSI fault.)
Stuff like that I can do. And I can get on the roof too.
I could get on the roof to service the AC. There is very little need to do anything for the AC. Never need to do anything with the coolant, it should be fine. If it quits cooling then you go checking things. There is not much chatter on this forum about AC issues other than generators or other inadequate power supply
How often does the freon need to be replaced? Is there any kind of mechanical service on the AC that needs to be done periodically? Something a pro should do? Every 3-5, whatever years? haha, nothing. just eyeball the cooling fins that they are not filled with debris (I have never seen this). The inside fins (evaporator) that you can see when you take the inside cover off could get filled with dust, hair etc, so a damp cloth will be enough to clean this.
Anything that has an exterior access panel I can open up and clean.
I have not looked at the heater at all yet, other than to stop all the dang wasps from building nests in Boise last year in anything that had any kind of cavity. I even had to kill a nest in the tongue frame up inside / behind the ball socket.
When I asked CW about what they do for $150 heater maint it was a long list. waste of your good money
I appreciate the help.
Also the smoke and LP detectors.These have a short life. About 6 years, there is no test, just replace it after 5-7 years as the critical part degrades and will not work.
And with these little fire extinguishers I have shot off 25 year old ones from a junk yard that worked perfect. They have a pressure indicator, so if that is in range then likely it is good. As other post suggest, shake it every 6 months to keep chemicals mixed
I do keep my tires covered.Tires are also 6 year items, no matter if they get driven or not
I have two axles with Dexter Nev-R-Adjust breaks. just wait until you notice issues. If you wait too long, 20 years, then there is a chance the brake material will break away from its backing plate, I have seen this, but on really old brakes that never were hooked to a controller/ never used…, or rust could freeze everything up and nothing works.
Wait until you notice a loss in performance, or change pads every 6 years…
I can inspect the tires for wear. If you were more robust then you can replace it when it oes flat… but also risk damage from a flat falling apart and ravaging the side and fender of your trailer. They should last 6 yrs
Should I just keep track of the mileage and have the bearings / brakes inspected every 5k miles? Yes. or 6-7k miles. You can jack the tire an inch off the ground then put a big screw driver or crow bar under the tire and check for play. If there is play in the wheel (bearing) then it needs to be tightened, if no play then no need to mess with it. If you have the grease fitting on the hub, then grease it with a grease gun every few 3,000 miles just for good measure. Driving on a loose bearing is not the end of the world
Note: I will be sticking with CW for now. find the repair needs yourself and let them warranty it then
I know about the anode rod in the water heater. I have DSI. So "annual maint" is just drain it, replace the rod, blow it out with a can of air and scrub the igniter points with a toothbrush? (I learned about most that from YT when I was having a DSI fault.)
Stuff like that I can do. And I can get on the roof too.
I could get on the roof to service the AC. There is very little need to do anything for the AC. Never need to do anything with the coolant, it should be fine. If it quits cooling then you go checking things. There is not much chatter on this forum about AC issues other than generators or other inadequate power supply
How often does the freon need to be replaced? Is there any kind of mechanical service on the AC that needs to be done periodically? Something a pro should do? Every 3-5, whatever years? haha, nothing. just eyeball the cooling fins that they are not filled with debris (I have never seen this). The inside fins (evaporator) that you can see when you take the inside cover off could get filled with dust, hair etc, so a damp cloth will be enough to clean this.
Anything that has an exterior access panel I can open up and clean.
I have not looked at the heater at all yet, other than to stop all the dang wasps from building nests in Boise last year in anything that had any kind of cavity. I even had to kill a nest in the tongue frame up inside / behind the ball socket.
When I asked CW about what they do for $150 heater maint it was a long list. waste of your good money
I appreciate the help.
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